An article by PetMD. Trixie and Rudy are the exemption. Rudy picks at his food and Trixie will eat and walk away. They are both not like other dogs who eat watermelon, cucumber and other things. Nope not their thing. I love my dogs.
Enjoy the read. I don’t an agree with all of it but hopefully you will find something interesting in it. Let me knows.
Tricia, Rudy and Trixie
By PetMD Editorial. Reviewed by Katie Grzyb, DVMon Jun. 17, 2022
Although dogs may seem perpetually interested in food, an excessive appetite (called polyphagia or hyperphagia) may signal a more serious issue that should be examined by a veterinarian.
If your dog is always hungry, they could have a problem with their metabolism, leaving them abnormally hungry, and they may be begging or whining even after eating.
So how can you tell if your dog is just very interested in food or has an underlying problem?
Here’s what to look for, possible causes, and when to see a vet.
HEALTH TOOLS
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What to Check For if Your Dog Is Always Hungry
If your dog doesn’t have any other symptoms and appears to be fine other than wanting to eat all the time, schedule a vet visit within 1-2 weeks or at the earliest time available.
Dogs that are suddenly hungrier than usual often have other symptoms. As a rule of thumb, any change in eating or bathroom habits should prompt a visit to the veterinarian.
Changes in body shape, such as a growing potbelly and shrinkage of muscle
Eating non-food items
Causes of Increased Appetite in Dogs
There’s no clear-cut cause for why a dog might be obsessed with eating. It could stem from a psychological issue, such as stress or learned behavior, or a medical issue, such as not getting the right nutrients or an underlying health condition.
That’s why you’ll need your vet’s help in getting the root of the problem. They can perform tests and ask questions to rule out certain causes. Here are some of the most common causes of increased appetite in dogs:
How Vets Find the Cause for Increased Appetite in Dogs
Your veterinarian may want to run a range of tests to determine the underlying cause for the sudden increase in appetite. They will usually start with the least invasive tests to try to rule things out. Here are some diagnostics your vet may want to do:
Complete medical history and physical examination
Blood panels, such as a complete blood count
Urinalysis
Tests for parasites, such as fecal flotation and Giardia tests
Adrenocorticotropic hormone (ACTH) stimulation test or low-dose dexamethasone suppression test (LDDS) to check for Cushing’s disease
Endoscopy examination (may be considered after additional testing is completed)
Treatment of Increased Appetite in Dogs
Don’t delay in getting your dog examined by a veterinarian if they appear to be suffering from constant hunger. Treatment will include giving your dog supportive care for the symptom of polyphagia as well as dealing with any underlying conditions:
Behavioral-related causes may be addressed by feeding smaller portions more frequently and carefully supervising your dog’s food consumption.
A metabolic issue, such as diabetes mellitus, may be treated with daily insulin injections and dietary changes.
If Cushing’s disease is diagnosed, medication may be prescribed.
Infection or parasites will be treated with medication and/or deworming.
For exocrine pancreatic insufficiency,your vet will recommend dietary changes and medications.
Treatment for cancer can include chemotherapy, surgery, and radiation treatments.
Increased Appetite in Dogs FAQs
Do dogs eat more as they get older?
Yes. Sometimes this is due to underlying health conditions, such as diabetes mellitus or Cushing’s disease, or a medication they’re taking, like prednisone.
Why does my dog eat like he’s starving?
Many conditions can trigger increased appetite in dogs. A dog may have learned the behavior because they were not properly fed or became anxious about food. Or, they may have developed a metabolic condition or infection or have parasites. Your vet will need to do an exam, ask questions, and do some tests to rule out certain causes.
When is overeating a concern for dogs?
You should call your vet if you notice a sudden and dramatic change in your dog’s dietary habits.
I have several articles I can post, but I thought I would address a situation that just occurred.
This morning my husband came and told me some unhappy news. There are two dogs and I will be very cryptic about this that run at our local park. Out dogs run happily together and it’s 99% of the time fun for all. Yesterday however, either before or after I was there a dog was bitten by a dog that is friendly to Trixie and Rudy. I never would’ve guessed it. The dog that was with them, I would not have thought twice if it had been the one, but it wasn’t. The pup got bit suffering puncture wounds, but is recovering and will be fine. I know many are saying dogs should be on leash it’s against the law.
Our park has a lot of dogs that play together and it’s wonderful to be able to have someplace to let the dogs be dogs. It upsets me, but I have to remember that like people not all dogs get along for one reason or another and this could’ve happened at a Dog Park, just as easily.
There could be a lot of assumptions and they should’ve done this and that should’ve been done and everything else but whatever should’ve could’ve been done differently. I want to remind everyone I have some basicdog rules.
1. When walking on a sidewalk, dogs on leash move your dogs to the side away from oncoming pedestrians.
2. If your dogs are playing off leash at the dog park or another park or friends, always keep your eye on your dog.
3. Keep your eyes open for any aggression, signs of domination or a dog in a submissive pose.
4 if you see any of the above, be sure to intervene. If it’s your dog, be sure to remove it from the situation whatever it’s position is.
5. No humping.
Rudy is not a humper in general, but when it comes to his friends and another dog comes between them, he will try to hump his friend or the other dog. I immediately stop him from continuing.
There was one situation where he did that to a small, mini dachshund female, and she took him down. She was quick and took control of the situation. She didn’t hurt him but it easily could have gone the other way and he could have been hurt. I want to be clear that if he had been hurt, it was still his fault.
These are just a few of the General rules of pet parenting. I don’t want to see or hear of anyone having their loved pet being hurt or hurting another. Either way, it’s a stressful hurtful situation that none of us want to ever have it happen.
As anyone should know, I am all about adopting. I have a friend that took in a couple stray cats and my sister always taking one in. Not all stray cats want to live inside or have a home but some do. Of course they may not want to be indoor cats all the time, but have a place to come sleep eat and hang out but then night calls and they wanna go out. There are always around this and others let them go out at night. It all depends on what you’re comfortable with and what you know your cat can do.
The article below is from our friends at pet MD that may give you some help if you’ve taken in or are thinking about it.
According to the ASPCA, there are tens of millions of feral and stray cats in the United States. Many of these cats avoid people; however, stray cats will sometimes seek human interaction (or the full bellies that these interactions tend to guarantee).
In these cases, it seems as if stray cats decide to “adopt” an unsuspecting person as their new caretaker. Basically, these fuzzy interlopers can show up on your doorstep asking for cat food, shelter, and attention.
So, what do you if you’re in this situation? Should you adopt the stray cat? How do you make sure that your new stray cat neighbor stays happy and healthy under your care, especially if he won’t come inside?
Signs a Stray Cat Likes You
“When a cat starts coming around your house and looking for attention, begging for food, or trying to sneak in your front door, there’s a good chance you’ve been adopted,” explains Megan Phillips, BS, ADBC.
Phillips is a cofounder of Train With Trust, a Colorado Springs-based company that offers personalized behavior solutions for pet parents of all types of animals. “And if you start leaving food out, there’s no question. That cat will keep coming back.”
Phillips does note, however, that not all cats that come around begging are necessarily strays. She suggests that some cats may be “indoor-outdoor cats that belong to a neighbor; [the cat may just like] something about your yard or area.”
Elise Gouge, a certified dog and cat behavior consultant and owner of Pet Behavior Consulting, LLC in Granby, Massachusetts, notes that while you may feel special that a cat has chosen your yard as his new hangout spot, he might have other “adoptees” in your area. “Some cats are good at making the neighborhood rounds and having several friends they like to visit,” she says.
Should You Adopt a Stray Cat That Likes You?
Before assuming that a cat needs a home, check to see if he’s wearing a cat ID tag or bring him to a nearby animal hospital or rescue group to have him scanned for a microchip. If the cat has a home, it’s your responsibility to make a genuine effort to reunite cat and pet parent.
Mikel Delgado, a certified cat behavior consultant and cofounder of Feline Minds, a company that offers cat behavior services in the California Bay Area, recommends turning to social media in these situations.
“Take a picture and post it online, asking if anyone knows the cat hanging out in your yard. Sometimes you can find the cat’s home, or someone who takes care of local cat colonies will recognize him,” she says.
If you determine the stray cat is friendly and doesn’t have a home, you can begin the transition process. But, before you transition the outdoor stray cat into a domesticated pet, it’s essential that you earn the cat’s trust, bring him for a vet for a checkup, and have all the necessary cat supplies ready.
Earning Your Stray Cat’s Trust
Some stray cats will be friendly right off the bat. But with others, it may take time and patience to establish trust. “If a cat is not comfortable with humans, they will mostly scratch or bite if you attempt to handle them. Go slow and always allow the cat a way to leave the situation so that they don’t feel cornered,” says Gouge.
Martin Fernandez, a trap-neuter-release (TNR) program trainer and stray cat expert, says that earning a cat’s trust is partially a waiting game.
“You need to have time, and you need have patience. The cat will come to you when he’s ready. If you try to force it, he will run,” Fernandez says.
The best way to earn a stray cat’s trust is by setting out food for him over several days or weeks.
Taking Your Stray Cat to the Vet
While food and shelter are important, Phillips says that the number one priority is confirming that the stray cat is healthy. “You have to ensure that their basic veterinary needs are being taken care of, so if you can, try to catch the cat and bring him to the vet.”
It’s important to have a cat carrier when transporting the cat to the veterinarian. This helps ensure safety and security for all involved.
Phillips recommends putting food in the crate or cat carrier. “First, just let the cat eat in the carrier for a few days. Then, start closing the door a bit while he’s eating. Then, close it all the way. Then, try latching it. The key is to do everything gradually,” she says. “Then, after you visit the vet, keep the carrier out. Keep putting food in it. You want the cat to stay used to the carrier.”
According to Delgado, if your new feline friend was once a house cat, the transition indoors should be relatively easy.
“If a cat is hanging out on your back porch, she’s probably lived inside before and is socialized to interact with people.” In this case, Delgado recommends earning the kitty’s trust with food and then providing necessities indoors. This includes a cat litter box, a place to snuggle up, and food and water. “[Having a routine] and a cozy environment will help the cat transition into this new life,” she says.
However, if the stray is a feral cat, this process will take a little—or a lot—more time. “You have to gradually increase their comfort by associating your presence with something they really like—usually food,” Delgado says.
Do not trap a feral cat and bring them inside, Delgado says. “That can be frightening and stressful, as well as detrimental to your long-term goal of turning your stray into a house pet.”
Caring for Stray Cats That Prefer To Stay Outdoors
Sometimes cats that have lived their whole lives outside just don’t feel comfortable indoors. If this is the case with your stay cat, you should provide some kind of shelter.
During the spring and summer, provide your cat with plenty of shaded, cool areas to hang out as well as access to cold, fresh water. You can also provide a cooling pet pad, like The Green Pet Shop self-cooling pet pad, so your outdoor kitty always has a place to relax and cool down during hotter days.
There are organizations that can help you make sure the kitty receives proper medical care. “Your local TNR program can help safely trap a cat, get him medical care, and then release him,” Phillips says. “There are so many cat-lovers out there who are willing and able to help in cases like this.”
Delgado says that anyone looking to find another home for a stray cat should familiarize themselves with the resources available in their neighborhood.
“Some cities have much better support for community cats than others, and oftentimes, taking a cat to a shelter is a death sentence,” she says. “It’s best to look at all of your options, even if that is feeding the cat somewhere away from your house or contacting a TNR group to get the cat medical attention before releasing him back into the community.”
It’s just about April and of course it still feels like the year just started and it’s already moving too fast. Trixie is already started scratching and working on a hotspot as the flowers, grass and everything began to bloom her allergies go crazy. I think she’s just allergic to everything. With animals/dogs there are so many things just like humans that they are allergic to.
Ever since we adopted Trixie, she’s had itches. Allie died several years ago, and had really bad ear infections with allergies and was just miserable. I’m very grateful that Trixie‘s ears aren’t the problem. A hotspot is better than those smelly ears. And I don’t think we ever got her relief, the way Allie needed it.
The article below is about licking and chewing their paws and the many reasons that it could happen. Many of us have been through it and this is just been there done that but I’m putting it out there. There might be something that could be a light bulb moment.
gollykim/iStock / Getty Images Plus via Getty Images
So your dog is chewing and licking their paws more than usual, even when you try to distract them by calling their name or offering their favorite toy. Why is this happening?
Dr. Valentina Henao is a veterinarian and medical director at Veterinary Emergency Group (VEG) in Miami. She explains that a dog licking and chewing their paws could be doing so for many reasons, ranging from common issues like fleas or allergies to paw injuries.
Below, Dr. Henao helps us explore the most common causes and potential treatments for paw licking and chewing.
5 Reasons Your Dog Is Licking Their Paws
Dogs licking their paws is a fairly common behavior. Most often, it’s usually nothing to worry about. Dogs lick their paws as a means of exploration, self-soothing, or simply to clean off muck left over from their afternoon walk.
But if your dog is licking and chewing their paws excessively (they don’t stop when you call them or try to distract them with toys, food, or a walk), to the point where they’re causing themselves harm, then it’s time for a closer look at what might be going on.
Here are some of the most common reasons dogs excessively lick and chew at their paws:
1. Injuries or General Pain
While occasional paw licking is normal, aggressive licking or chewing could indicate pain or injury. Signs of pain like limping, avoiding stairs, or decreased activity might also be present if your pet is experiencing pain from:
If you think your dog may have been stung, look for an embedded stringer. “We must remove stingers that can cause allergic reactions and make your pets sick,” Dr. Henao says. Similarly, if you find a cut or suspect pain from other causes, reach out to your vet for diagnosis and treatment.
2. Fleas and Ticks
Fleas and ticks are common parasites that can make dogs itch, lick, and bite themselves. These pests can live just about anywhere dogs frequent, including bedding, carpets, toys, soil, tall grasses, and wooded areas.
The simplest way to check if your dog has fleas or ticks is by physically looking them over. Signs of fleas include small moving bugs on your dog’s skin and the black spots (flea dirt) they leave behind.
It’s important to work with your veterinarian to figure out why your dog is licking their paws so the cause can be addressed quickly.
Ticks most commonly burrow between the toes, under the legs, and behind the ears. If you find a tick, carefully remove it with tweezers by grabbing the base as close to your dog’s skin as possible.
Ensure when you remove a tick that the entire tick is removed, including the mouth parts. A tick can cause a serious skin infection if any parts of it are left behind, embedded in the skin. A special tick spoon is often the best way to remove the entire tick at once.
Talk to your veterinarian about the options available, including prescription and over-the-counter medications. They can advise you on the best option for your dog.
According to Dr. Henao, allergies can cause a reaction almost anywhere on the body, including infections of the skin and paws, hot spots, and ear infections. Identifying the allergen can be challenging because they can originate from:
Food: Culprits may include proteins like chicken, meat, pork, and eggs.
Environment: Laundry detergents or other household products might be problematic.
Fleas: The itchiness of fleas is caused by an allergic reaction.
If your dog has any bothersome infections related to their allergies, they may need topical and oral medications and a recovery cone to keep them from licking and worsening the affected area.
To address the underlying allergies, Dr. Henao says vets typically take a comprehensive approach, including allergy medications, injections, special diets, topical medications, and/or medicated shampoos.
Arthritis is a common condition in older dogs. It can affect not just large joints like hips and legs, but also the toes. This progressive disease occurs when joint cartilage breaks down, leading to pain, inflammation, and difficulty using the affected paws or limbs.
Fortunately, there are several ways to help provide relief and improve your dog’s mobility:
Environmental modifications: Make navigating your home easier for your dog by placing rugs on slippery floors, blocking access to stairs, and providing orthopedic beds.
Veterinarian-approved dietary adjustments: Ask your veterinarian whether supplements like glucosamineor a joint-healthy diet could be beneficial.
Weight management: Keeping your dog lean and not overweight helps to put less stress on their joints, which can help the arthritic process by easing the pressure and pain on affected joints.
Exercise or physical therapy: Low-impact exercise and keeping the joints moving can help to decrease the pain felt by a dog with arthritic joints.
Anti-inflammatory and pain medications (as needed): Depending on the severity of your dog’s arthritis, your vet may recommend medication to help manage the pain. Medications may include:
Librela™ is the first FDA-approved medication injection to manage pain associated with osteoarthritis in dogs. It can only be administered by a vet in an office.
Galliprant® is often prescribed to help ease the pain of arthritis in dogs and can be prescribed by your vet to give at home.
“Just like people, pets can have behavioral and mental health problems that require support from their veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist,” Henao says. In some cases, even after addressing underlying medical conditions like infections or allergies, a dog might lick and chew their paws due to:
It’s important to work with your veterinarian to figure out why your dog is licking their paws so the cause can be addressed quickly. Dr. Henao warns that if the cause isn’t treated, the licking can become a bigger problem.
Paw licking can lead to bacterial infections of the paws called pododermatitis,” she says. “This condition can be painful and lead to infections that can be hard to treat.” Catching the issue early on can lead to a simpler solution.
What a week. As you know, a dog with a cone is not a happy dog. She did really well wearing the cone. She figured out how to get water and started eating two days ago. I slept with her each night on the floor, but by Friday she was able to, go without the cone. What a relief she wasn’t eating much still or playing which was fine. It was better than having to take away toys or tell her we couldn’t go out because she wants to play and it was too soon.
Couple days ago, she picked up some toys and started to flip it around. Although she was showing signs of feeling better I wasn’t ready to let her go out and play ball. That was Monday this week. She started eating more and by today, Friday the 15th she is more than ready to make up the 4 pound she lost that week and a half. But it’s good to see her eating and playing. I took her out and played a little ball with her. She’s doing better. It’s not swelling or showing any signs of difficulty with her.
The biopsy came back negative. I am glad that there is nothing there. Perhaps just a sting or a bite who knows but it didn’t really do anything bad except set her back a couple of days.
Losing a few pounds wasn’t a bad thing not that she was overweight. She’s always been good at keeping her figure but now she can eat a little bit more because she has a little more room to spare an extra treat or two.
Thursday trixie’s face was swollen on the left side, which is black. So we figured she got stung by something although we know she has no allergies to bees. She is constantly chasing them, snapping at them and getting stung by them so with that, she didn’t have any signs of allergy. No vomiting, diarrhea, etc. Just a swollen face. I made an appointment with the for Friday. This swelling had gone down so we canceled thinking she was over it.
Friday night her face was more swollen than it had been Thursday. I took her and Rudy to the vet to pick up medication and check to see if they could get her in, they couldn’t and we would have to wait until Monday She stayed the same, drinking water, not eating, a short walk when she wanted it.
Went to the vet Monday fearing the worst because she’s 12 and that’s what you do. I was hoping for a tooth problem or something obvious but that wasn’t the case. The vet of course had to say they would have to look for a tumor, which is one the things we didn’t want to hear like I said we were hoping for a cracked tooth from playing ball or something.
We ordered all the bloodwork and all the test that could be done at the vets office although she said if they couldn’t come up with anything, we should go get a CT scan. They took her back and we sat and waited and waited while she was going through all the stuff. We were told to go sit in the waiting room thinking that once we’re in the waiting room we would just be going home after they finish the test. But instead, we’re in the waiting room and they call us back into the room. Sigh our hearts stopped for a moment we get the room, they leave us there and we look at each other and I say I thought we were leaving, his common was I thought we were too. Bracing for the worse the doctor comes in and immediately starts out with. We have some good news. Whew! Thank you Dr for starting it that way. It’s really scary when they come in it just start talking and reading numbers and stuff so so grateful she started it that way.
It turned out to be an abscess, although they didn’t know where or why the bloodwork showed the abscess or signs of an abscess, so she got bit by something who knows at this point. She takes her back and we’ve agreed to open it up and drain any pockets and get that swelling and yuck down. I run home which is only about a half mile away, drop Angel at home and race back stopping by Trader Joe’s to pick up some cake for the vets office.
I’m nervously waiting in the reception area wondering what in the world they’re going to find. As pet parents or human parents we all know when surgery happens and they are scouring around they could still find a tumor or anything…
She comes out happily and tells me everything went well and there was a lot of the liquid and pus to remove and she had placed the drain in. All good! I’m glad it’s going to keep draining the fluid and the oh yuck it’s going to smell and make a mess. But in all it’s over that’s the least we have to deal with.
She’s coming home and she’s in good shape. It’s Monday and Thursday they remove the tube and I know she can’t wait to get it out but she’s going to dread going to the vet again. I slept on the floor leading up to the surgery and I slept on the floor with her comforting her every night sense although she did really good last night so I think she can sleep by herself tonight. Trixie sleeps in our room door open. Her bed is at the foot of the bed. She doesn’t like, getting on the bed at night because it gets hot and she can’t get down as easily blah blah blah. Although yesterday Angel lifted her onto the bed and we stayed on the bed all day and she would’ve done it today but I need to get a few things around the house done.
I was beginning to worry because she had yet to urinate. She’s been drinking and very small amounts of food. I’m not worried about the food but not peeing? Angel, my husband took her out and he said she had a really long pee so I was relieved and happy.
It’s Wednesday, tomorrow she gets everything out and should be on her way to being happy happy dog.
I’ll update you tomorrow and let you know her progress.
I’ve know someone that had a Ferret. Not many do, I think it would be a great pet although it needs a lot of care. I say that thinking dogs need the same, some more than others. Ferrets aren’t as accepted in restaurants, stores etc than dogs are. The world has become much more accommodating to dogs.
If you have a Ferret let me know how you interact with yours.
If you want an active, playful, mischievous pet that will bring endless fun, then a ferret may be the right pet for you.
But before you bring one of these rambunctious little creatures into your home, here are 11 things to know about ferrets and proper ferret care.
1. Ferrets are illegal in some areas of the United States.
Before you adopt or purchase a ferret, you should check out your local laws. Pet ferrets are prohibited in California, Hawaii, and New York City.
While veterinarians in these locations will still treat sick ferrets, the adoption or purchase of new ferrets is not allowed. If you live in one of these areas, it’s best to consider getting another type of pet.
2. Ferrets have a strong, musky odor, even when they’re de-scented.
For many pet ferrets, these glands are surgically removed during the process of “de-scenting” when the animals are very young—before they are sold. Ferrets that retain these glands smell so musky that most people would never want them as pets.
However, even after they are de-scented, ferrets will still retain a milder musky odor that some people find unpleasant.
So, if you are sensitive to odor, and you’re considering a ferret as a pet, you might want to spend some time around one to be sure you can tolerate the smell before you bring a ferret home.
3. Ferrets love company.
Ferrets are social creatures that typically live in groups or colonies in the wild. Because they love company, pet ferrets generally look for human family members or other ferrets to hang out with.
It’s much more fun to play when you have friends to play with. Consequently, many ferret owners end up owning more than one ferret.
On rare occasions, two ferrets might not get along. So, if you get more than one ferret, you’ll need to supervise their interactions for several days to ensure they get along before you can safely leave them alone together.
To minimize competition between ferrets, each one should have equal access to food, toys, hiding spots, and sleeping areas so that they’re less likely to fight over resources.
4. Ferrets need to run!
Ferrets love to curl up and sleep, particularly if they can find a warm place to nap, but when they’re not napping, they also love to run, jump, climb, and hide. Ferrets also love toys.
Young ferrets, in particular, enjoying skittering across the floor and chasing toys. Exercise for ferrets is key, or they will overeat from boredom and become obese.
So, if you’re going to own a ferret, plan on lots of out-of-cage time for them to run around.
Ferrets are called ferrets because they literally “ferret out” everything. They chew on, dig up, and pull out nearly every object they encounter—especially when they’re young and very curious.
Objects made of foam, rubber, or cloth, including furniture and shoes, are special favorites. Ferrets notoriously steal everything they can get their mouths on and store their treasures in closets, under beds, or anywhere they can hide them.
This mischievous behavior can lead to significant health problems, since foreign objects they inadvertently swallow can get stuck in their gastrointestinal (GI) tracts and cause life-threatening obstructions that require surgical treatment.
So, if you decide to get a pet ferret, you’ll need to commit to ferret-proofing your home. That means picking up everything from the floor, creating a ferret-proofed area that’s free of tempting things to chew on, and supervising your new pet whenever he or she is out of the cage.
6. Ferrets eat meat.
Wild ferrets are carnivores that hunt for and consume rodents and rabbits. Their GI tracts have evolved to digest animal protein and not vegetable matter.
While a pet ferret should also be eating meat, their intestinal tract is not adapted to consuming raw meat in the same way as their wild counterparts. In fact, pet ferrets can develop severe intestinal infection with toxic bacteria such as Salmonella.
Pet ferrets should be fed commercially formulated, high-protein/moderate-fat/low-carbohydrate diets that contain all the nutrients that ferrets require. These diets have also been prepared to eliminate potentially harmful bacteria.
Several kibble diets are available for pet ferrets, and they generally love them.
Before diets were developed specifically for ferrets, many people fed their pet ferrets cat food. In general, it’s preferable to use commercially available ferret food over cat food because ferret-specific diets meet the nutritional needs of ferrets more closely.
Ferrets can live to be 6-9 years old or more, so it’s important to provide consistent, preventative veterinary care. They should see their veterinarian annually and then semi-annually as they age.
By examining ferrets every year, veterinarians may diagnose and treat conditions earlier and may help ferrets live longer, happier lives.
After 3 years of age, ferrets also should have annual blood tests to help ensure that their blood sugar levels and kidney and liver functions are normal.
After 5 years of age, ferrets should be checked every six months, since by this age, they have often developed more than one of the conditions they commonly encounter as they age.
8. Ferrets often develop certain diseases as they age.
Ferrets sold in pet stores in the United States are typically from one of two very large breeding facilities, and consequently, they are extremely inbred.
Inbreeding, unfortunately, increases the chances for developing certain diseases, including adrenal gland tumors and pancreatic tumors called insulinomas.
These illnesses can occur in ferrets as young as a year of age. Older ferrets commonly develop heart disease and other types of cancer.
If you’re planning on getting a ferret, you should expect that at some point, your ferret will develop one or more of these conditions and will require veterinary treatment.
9. Ferrets need shots.
Ferrets can contract and pass on rabies. Therefore, in many of the states in which they are legal as pets, ferrets are required by law to be vaccinated for rabies at 4-5 months of age and then annually after that.
Ferrets are also very susceptible to the deadly canine distemper virus that commonly affects dogs, but it’s preventable through vaccination. There is a ferret-specific distemper virus vaccine that should be administered initially in a series of three shots (three weeks apart), starting at 2 months of age, and then annually after that.
Very rarely, ferrets can develop diarrhea, vomiting, or collapse after receiving either the rabies or distemper vaccine. For this reason, ferrets that receive vaccines should wait at the veterinary hospital for 15 minutes after receiving their shots to ensure they’re not having a reaction.
Ferrets that suffer from vaccine reactions should not be revaccinated in the future if their reaction is severe.
Even if pet ferrets are kept indoors, they should receive annual booster vaccines against both rabies and distemper viruses for life. This is because their owners can track distemper virus inside their homes on their shoes, and pet ferrets might also have contact with wildlife, like bats, which can carry the deadly rabies virus.
10. Ferrets need flea and heartworm disease preventative.
Just like cats and dogs, ferrets are susceptible to flea infestation and deadly heartworm infection. This is true even for ferrets kept indoors, as fleas can come in from outside, especially if there are dogs and cats in the home. Mosquitos can also make their way indoors and transmit heartworm disease to indoor ferrets.
Ferret-savvy veterinarians can prescribe flea and heartworm preventatives that are safe for use in ferrets, as not all flea and heartworm products are appropriate for ferrets.
11. Ferrets get hairballs.
Ferrets shed a lot of hair, particularly when the weather gets warm, and like cats, they may ingest this hair as they lick and groom themselves. This means that—like cats—ferrets can produce hairballs too.
If they ingest a large amount of hair, it can stick together in their intestines and cause a potentially life-threatening obstruction.
Ferrets with adrenal gland tumors commonly lose lots of hair as a result of hormones secreted by their tumors, and this often predisposes them to hairball development.
To help prevent hairballs from forming, ferrets should be brushed at least once a week with a narrow-toothed hair comb meant for brushing either a ferret or a cat.
If a ferret is shedding excessively, hairball laxatives made for either ferrets or cats can help hair pass through the GI tract more easily. These can be given by mouth once or twice a week.
Talk with your veterinarian to find out more if you are worried about hairballs in your ferret.
How to Find a Pet Ferret
If you decide that a ferret is right for you, you can rescue a ferret from one of several shelters across the United States, purchase one from reputable pet stores, or adopt one from a private breeder.
If you are rescuing a ferret from a shelter, be sure to quarantine them from other pets, as animals from rescue facilities can carry illness (e.g., GI parasites, mild upper respiratory tract infections, etc.) that they could potentially transmit to other ferrets or to cats or dogs.
Try to find out as much about the ferret’s history (i.e., why they were given up to the shelter) as you can, so that you can make the transition to your home as easy as possible.
If you adopt a ferret from a breeder, be sure to ask the breeder these questions:
Has the ferret been vaccinated?
What diet has the ferret been eating?
Does the ferret get along with other animals?
What is the ferret’s health history? Do they have veterinary records?
What is your policy regarding a guarantee if the ferret is sick?
This applies to Trixie, our Border Collie. When it comes to playing ball she has no limit. She has gotten better at saying she is done. Sometimes she’ll start heading in the way home. If there are no other dogs in the park. I take plenty of water but don’t let her drink too much to get sick. Anymore at her age – 12 I need to be careful to watch her. She might slow down, start to limp or pant a lot. She has arthritis and some joint pain. She is a rescue so there are a lot of things I don’t know but what I do it’s important to keep a watch full eye on her
Exercise provides your dog with physical and mental benefits. It keeps joints limber, promotes cardiovascular (heart) health, decreases the risk of obesity, strengthens the human-animal bond, and reinforces your dog’s need for routine.
However, this isn’t an invitation to overwork your dog. “One misconception I sometimes encounter is that if a dog is overweight or obese, then the pet parent must suddenly erupt into a rigorous exercise plan for the dog,” says Dr. Robin Downing, hospital director of The Downing Center for Animal Pain Management in Windsor, Colorado.
But how can you tell if your dog is getting too much exercise? Here are some signs of overextension to look out for.
Signs of Overextension in Dogs
1. Wear-and-Tear on Paw Pads
For some dogs, playing is more important than painful feet, says Dr. Susan Jeffrey, a veterinarian with Truesdell Animal Hospital in Madison, Wisconsin. “Some dogs will run until the pads on their feet tear and will then run some more.”
Pad injuries can be extremely painful, and Downing describes it as “like walking on a ruptured blister on the bottom of your foot.” This makes walking painful for them.
Look at the bottom of your dog’s paws. Overworked pads may have tears with visible flaps of skin present, and they may appear red, worn away, or thinner than normal. If the dog’s pads are infected, you may see swelling or pus.
2. Sore Muscles
Muscular pain and stiffness are also signs your dog may be getting too much exercise. “This typically shows up after the dog rests following excessive exercise,” Downing says.
Signs of sore muscles in dogs include:
Struggling to rise after lying down
Refusing to walk up or down stairs
Reluctance to jump, such as up onto the couch
Whining when moving
You can help reduce soreness and stiffness by unsubscribing to weekend warrior syndrome, says Jen Pascucci, a rehab therapist and veterinary technician at Haven Lake Animal Hospital in Milford, Delaware. “Many pet parents work all week and try to fit in a week’s worth of exercise into two days off,” she says. “This is not good for the dog because they are usually not properly conditioned but will push through warning muscle and joint pain and fatigue for playtime.”
Some dogs have such a strong drive to work and play that they’ll push through severe fatigue and potential injury, Pascucci says. “That is the real danger. It is up to the pet parent to set boundaries and limit the high-drive dog to avoid over-exercise-related injury and exhaustion.”
Your dog’s age is also a factor. “Very young and old dogs have difficulty regulating their body temperatures, so too much exercise can cause them to overheat as well,” Jeffrey says.
Pet parents should always use caution when exercising their dog during summer months, especially when it’s humid or hot. Consider short activities during the cooler parts of the day.
4. Joint Injury
The impact associated with extreme exercise can cause strain and sprain in various dog joints. Toe joints are particularly susceptible, but the wrist and elbow are also at-risk, Downing says.
“Dogs carry about 60% of their weight on their front limbs, which puts quite a bit of stress on those joints,” she says. In dogs with very straight rear legs, excessive exercise can lead to problems in the stifle (knee) joints, including strain, sprain, meniscal tears, and tears in the cranial cruciate ligament.”
Some dogs are at greater risk of developing joint injuries. Breeds that are long and low to the ground (like Basset Hounds and Dachshunds) have unusually shaped joints, which puts their limbs at risk for easy injury in the face of excessive exercise. Back problems are also common in these breeds.
Also be aware of behavioral changes. For example, if your dog normally likes to run with you but plops down on the pavement and refuses to go farther, this is something you might want to investigate with your veterinarian.
Inconsistent conditioning can contribute to this behavior and to injuries, Pascucci says. “Playing off-leash for one hour does not mean [it’s] one hour of exercise,” she says. “Most dogs will have bursts of activity and then rest when off-leash and left to their own devices. Being free to run and play in the backyard five days a week and then expected to jog with a pet parent 10 miles one day is a recipe for injury.”
She says a good conditioning plan for active pet parents and their dogs is to alternate days of cardio exercise (consistent exercise for 20 minutes or more) and strengthening with one full day of rest, which is a free day with no planned activities.
How Much Exercise Should I Give My Dog?
Dogs need exercise to maintain peak physical and mental well-being, but the type and length of that exercise depends on their condition, health history, breed, and age. Some dogs, like Labrador Retrievers, are built to be heavy exercisers while others, such as French Bulldogs, are not.
Moderation is key, and time spent exercising isn’t as important as the intensity of that exercise. For example, going on a walk is much less likely to overexert a dog than running, jumping, or harder play.
It’s good to know the signs of over-working your dog, but it’s even better to prevent issues. The best way to do this is by working with your vet to create a sensible exercise plan for your furry pal.
Dogs are omnivorous, which means that they can digest both animal and plant materials. So, you might wonder: Can dogs eat fruit? And if so, which fruits can dogs eat?
Check out this list to see which fruits are safe and ask your veterinarian before supplementing your pet’s diet. Dogs dealing with obesity, diabetes, bladder stones, and other conditions should not be fed fruit without consulting your veterinarian first.
Here are some dog-friendly fruits, plus some fruits you should never feed your dog.
Key Takeaways
Many fruits are OK for healthy dogs to eat but others should be avoided.
Always wash the fruit and remove any stems, leaves, seeds, pits, and skin before giving it your dog.
Talk to your veterinarian to determine what you can safely feed your dog.
Can Dogs Eat Fruit?
It depends. Dogs can safely eat some fruits, but others are toxic to them. Due to the balanced nature of high-quality, nutritionally complete commercial diets, it’s not necessary to supplement your dog’s diet with fruits, but it can be fun to use them as treats.
What Fruits Can Dogs Eat Safely?
Apples
Most dogs love apples, which are safe and healthy for them to eat and contain many nutritional benefits like vitamins A and C, fiber, potassium, and antioxidants. Apples are also low in calories.
Always remove the stem, leaves, core, and seeds before feeding an apple to your dog. You should also cut the apple into small pieces to avoid potential choking or intestinal blockages.
Bananas
Although dogs can eat bananas, they should not be given banana peels, as these are difficult to digest and could cause intestinal blockage.
Bananas are high in fiber, potassium, and vitamins B6 and C. However, they are also higher in sugar than many other fruits, so they should be given sparingly. Always cut bananas into small, bite-size pieces.
Blackberries
Yes, dogs can eat blackberries in moderation. Berries are packed with antioxidants and phytochemicals, which are chemical compounds in plants that have been found to help fight cancer in humans. They are also low in sugar and calories.
But blackberries also contain small amounts of naturally occurring xylitol, which is highly toxic to dogs. That said, your dog would have to eat a huge amount of blackberries to experience any adverse effects. A small handful of blackberries (depending on the size and health of your pup) a week should be OK.
Blueberries
Blueberries are low in calories and high in vitamin C, fiber, antioxidants, and phytochemicals. These berries can be a great snack for your dog as a food topper.
Cantaloupe
Cantaloupe is a healthy and nutritious fruit for dogs to eat. It’s high in fiber, low in calories, and contains numerous vitamins and minerals, including vitamins A and C, folate, fiber, and potassium. Cantaloupe is also 90% water, so it’s great for hydration.
Just watch out for the high sugar content—especially if your dog struggles with diabetes or obesity. Remember to always remove the rind and seeds before feeding cantaloupe to your dog.
Cranberries
Cranberries are a great snack for dogs. They are not only safe, but cranberries are considered a superfood for humans because they’re high in fiber and antioxidants. They also contain vitamins C, E, K, B1, and B2, plus manganese and copper.
Dried cranberries are a safe treat for pups, too. Just be aware that the amount of sugar per ounce is more concentrated when a fruit is dehydrated. Know that store-bought dried cranberries often have added sugars, preservatives, or even xylitol, an artificial sweetener that’s toxic to dogs. It’s best to dry cranberries with a dehydrator at home.
Honeydew
Honeydew is safe and healthy for dogs to eat. It contains vitamin C, potassium, and fiber, and it’s low in calories. And much like cantaloupe, honeydew contains a high percentage of water, so it’s great for hydration.
Always remove the rind and seeds before feeding honeydew to your dog to avoid any potential choking hazards or intestinal blockages.
Mangoes
Mangoes are also high in sugar and should only be fed to dogs in moderation. However, they are high in many nutritional benefits like fiber, potassium, and vitamins A, B6, C, and E as well.
Be sure to remove the mango seed and cut it into small pieces when feeding this fruit to your dog.
Oranges
Oranges are a safe and healthy treat for dogs to eat. They are a great source of vitamin C, potassium, and fiber. And while most dogs love the sweet taste, some dogs don’t like the acidity of citrus fruits.
Oranges are not a good choice for dogs who experience obesity or diabetes because of the high sugar content. Eating too many oranges can give any dog an upset stomach from the high acidity and sugar levels, so be sure to feed oranges as an occasional treat in small portions.
Peaches
Yes, peaches are a great snack for dogs—but again, in moderation. They are filled with health benefits like fiber and antioxidants while being low in calories and fat. However, peaches also have high sugar content.
You’ll need to remove the stem, leaves, and pit before feeding peaches to your dog. The peach pit—or stone—can be a dangerous choking hazard or even cause an intestinal blockage.
Pears
Dogs can safely eat pears, which contain health benefits like fiber, copper, and vitamins C and K. But before you feed any pears to your pup, remove the stem, leaves, pit, and seeds. Any of these could become choking hazards.
Avoid feeding canned pears to your dog, as they often contain added sugars.
Pineapple
Pineapples are good for hydration and are packed with antioxidants and vitamins. This fruit is great for supporting your dog’s immune and digestive systems, but some dogs may not like pineapples because of the strong acidity.
Keep in mind that the high sugar content and acidity can upset your dog’s stomach in large amounts. Plus, large amounts of sugar over time can lead to health issues, including obesity or diabetes.
Raspberries
Like blackberries, dogs can eat raspberriessafely on occasion. But because they’re high in sugar, limit the amount of berries to avoid gastrointestinal upset.
Strawberries
Strawberries are a good source of vitamin C, potassium, fiber, and antioxidants. As with other fruits, they should be cut into small pieces to avoid choking. Strawberries can also be mashed or pureed for very small dogs.
Tomatoes
Tomatoes are not toxic to dogs, despite a popular myth that says otherwise. While you shouldn’t let your pup eat the stems or leaves of a tomato plant (which can be bad for dogs), a picked, ripe tomato is totally fine and can be a good source of potassium, antioxidants, and vitamin A and C.
Watermelon
Yes, dogs can eat watermelon. But the watermelon rinds and seeds (even the pale seeds) should be removed before giving the fruit to your dog, as they can cause choking or an intestinal blockage.
Watermelon is mostly water, so it’s a great treat for hot days. It can help keep your dog hydrated and is refreshing when frozen. Watermelon is also a good source of vitamins A, B6, and C, as well as potassium.
What Fruits Can Dogs NOT Eat?
Don’t assume all fruits are safe for your dog. Here are some to avoid.
Never feed grapes or raisins to your dog. They may be toxic to some dogs, even in small amounts. But there is no way of knowing how your dog will react beforehand.
If your dog has eaten any grapes or raisins, contact your veterinarian immediately and take your dog to the vet’s office or an emergency vet. Time is of the essence when it comes to treatment for grape toxicity.
Wild Berries
Never feed your dog wild berries, as they can be easily misidentified and many are toxic to dogs.
How Much Fruit Can a Dog Have?
Treats should make up no more than 10% of your dog’s diet—this includes fruit. If you are giving your dog fruit in addition to other dog treats, make sure that you do not exceed this 10% recommendation.
The specific amount of fruit, or any treat, your dog can have varies based on your dog’s size and health. Talk to your veterinarian for guidance.
Even if a fruit isn’t toxic to dogs, too much of anything can give your dog an upset stomach. Some dogs are more sensitive than others and can experience gastrointestinal distress even if given a small amount of fruit. Keep an eye out for the typical symptoms of an upset stomach:
If you do notice any of the signs of GI upset, stop feeding your dog any fruit and call your veterinarian.
How to Safely Prepare Fruit for Your Dog
Wash fruit thoroughly before feeding it to your dog. Remove any leaves, stems, seeds, pits, or rinds. Cut the fruit into small, bit-sized pieces and give your dog a small amount. Canned fruit in syrup should never be given due to the high sugar content.
Pieces of fruit can be given as individual treats or mashed up and added to your dog’s meals. Remember that fruit can be a choking hazard, especially for small dogs, so always monitor your pup while they’re eating.
Fruit for Dogs FAQs
Can dogs eat fruit snacks?
No, dogs should not eat fruit snacks. While fruit snacks are not considered toxic to dogs, they are very high in sugar and best avoided.
All dogs bark, and they bark for many different reasons. But what if your dog just won’t stop barking? They’re likely trying to tell you something, and it’s up to you to figure out what that is.
“Barking is driven by a whole bunch of things,” says Dr. Kristina Spaulding, PhD, CAAB. “And while some dogs don’t bark much, they’ll sometimes find other ways to show their emotions or signal that they want something—like pawing at you, jumping, mouthing, stealing things, or finding other ways to get into trouble.”
If your dog is being overly vocal or barking excessively, here are some of the common reasons for the behavior.
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1. They Want Something
Demand barking, Spaulding says, occurs when a dog wants attention of some kind. Maybe that’s to go on a walk or just to be pet. It could also signify that your dog wants food.
Unlike other types of barking, demand barking has a specific and identifiable cadence to it, Spaulding says.
“Demand barking tends to be shorter—a single bark or a few in quick succession,” she says. “There are more pauses in between, and the dog is usually looking at you or the thing they want. It’s much more controlled.”
The million-dollar question with this type of barking is whether you should respond to it.
“I tend to ignore it or actively get up and walk away if a dog demand barks at me,” Spaulding says. That’s because caving and giving dogs what they want can reinforce the behavior and encourage them to demand bark more in the future.
If you decide you want to give in, Spaulding says it’s best to do that after the first or second bark, if you can. Waiting teaches your dog that they have to bark a lot to get what they want, and they may become problematic in the future.
2. They’re Alarmed
Does your dog bark when the doorbell rings? That’s alarm barking.
“Alarm barking is associated with something catching the dog’s attention,” says Sandra Sawchuk, DVM, primary care clinical instructor at the University of Wisconsin School of Veterinary Medicine.
If you want this type of barking to stop, the most important thing is to not yell at the dog. That just tends to rile them up even more. Instead, divert the dog’s attention as quickly as possible by taking them outside or giving them a favorite toy—something they can chew on will work especially well to get them to stop barking.
Consider training your dog to go to a spot away from the door whenever the bell rings. This might be something you can do yourself, or you may have to hire a certified professional trainer in your area to assist you.
3. They’re Anxious
The emotion behind anxious barking is similar to alarm barking, but the context can be very different.
Anxious barking may occur when you’re leaving the house for the day. You might also see it on walks when a stranger or another dog is approaching. This type of barking often gets confused for aggression.
“Typically, if a dog is barking in an aggressive context, it’s actually fear-based,” Spaulding says. “People are often confused by that because if dogs lunge and bark at the same time, that must mean they’re aggressive. But often, it seems to just be a display to keep them away from something they find scary.”
4. They’re Excited
During walks, a dog may let out an excited bark if they see another pup along the way, Spaulding says. “You’ll also see excitable barking when dogs are doing something they enjoy, like chasing or for agility dogs when they run a course.”
The fine line between fearful and excited can be especially difficult when you’re dealing with on-leash reactivity, and Spaulding says leash-reactive dogs should probably be evaluated by a certified professional.
In most other situations of excitable barking, however, the context is usually pretty clear.
5. They Simply Want Attention
Context means so much when you’re trying to discern why your dog is barking, but Spaulding says it can sometimes be entirely unclear to you what your dog wants, assuming they want anything at all.
“Often, a dog’s bark means they’re bored or frustrated, and they want us to fix it,” she says. “In situations where you’re not sure what the cause of the barking is, it’s fair to assume your dog would like to interact with you.”
Teach your dog a behavior to replace barking, such as running to a mat and lying down. This works best for demand-style barking.
Note when your dog is likely to bark at you and what kind of attention they’re looking for (for example: access to the backyard, a game of tug, or dinner).
About 10 to 15 minutes before you expect them to start barking, ask them to go to their mat and lie down.
Once there, deliver the item or event your dog wants.
Train Your Dog to Bark a Little
The second method is to train your dog to bark a specific number of times. This is a good approach to alarm barking.
Once the dog reaches the target number of barks, mark it with a word or a clicker and feed them a treat.
If your dog begins to bark again, repeat this process.
Once they bark the target number of times and look at you, start to move farther away from them so they must leave the window or door they’re barking at to collect their cookie.
Soon, your dog will be asking for the things with behavior that doesn’t include excessive barking and limiting their alarm barking to something much more manageable.
