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Information and stories related to all types of animals.

It’s the holiday season. Let’s review the holiday do’s and don’t.

Our friends from PetMD. I want to have a trusted source of information for you.

Tips for Pet Parents for Dealing With Holiday Stress

Profile picture for user Dr. Hanie Elfenbein

Written by:Hanie Elfenbein, DVMPUBLISHED: NOVEMBER 28, 2018FacebookTwitterPinterest

The holidays have arrived, and that means there will be plenty of parties, dinners, gift exchanges and get-togethers. Whether you will be hosting one of these events, or packing up the family and pets to visit family and friends, know before you go how you are going to keep everyone calm and comfortable, so that everyone has a good time.

Managing Holiday Stress With Pets and Visitors

If you are expecting visitors for the holidays, you will want to do a little preparation before the guests arrive. Many of us consider our pets to be members of the family, and we enjoy having them with us as we celebrate good times.

But when our pets are not used to having more than a few people around, they can get overly excited, and things can stop being fun. If your dog is jumping, begging for food or barking, it can lead to some embarrassing situations, and can even frighten guests who are not accustomed to having animals around.

In the weeks before the event, take some time to work on your pet’s manners and to reinforce dog obedience training. You might try having small gatherings with some pet-friendly people who can help reinforce your pet’s manners, so that when the bigger party night comes, your pet will already be prepared.

Setting Up a Pet-Friendly Room

If, on the other hand, you know that your pup will not be able to hold back his exuberance, or your cat is notorious for jumping on counters and getting into food dishes, or you are afraid a guest will let them outside, set aside a safe room where pets can stay for the duration of the event.

Make the space comfortable with a comfy, large dog bed or cat bed, water, dog toys or cat toys, and maybe some cat treats or dog treats. Close this area off to the guests so that you can be sure that your pet and your guests are safe. Remember to either tell your guests that your pet should be left alone or tape a sign to the door saying “do not open” so that people know to keep out. The last thing you want is for a very excited pet to dash through the house, and possibly out the door.

Traveling With Your Pet

Leaving the familiarity of home can cause anxiety in people and animals. If you are traveling by car, be sure to bring along some of your pet’s favorite toys, the pet’s blanket or bed, and his regular dog food or cat food. If your dog is used to sleeping in a crate, bring it along so he can sleep in his familiar space.

Keep pets in a travel-safe crate so that the animal is not able to move freely throughout the car. This covers a few bases. It prevents them from getting underfoot or on your lap while you are driving—an obvious hazard; it prevents them from being thrown from the car should an accident occur; and it prevents them from getting free/running away at rest stops or after minor accidents. If you cannot fit a crate into your car, you can use a dog seat belt, dog car seat, pet carrier or car barrier to keep your pet safe.

If your pet will be flying with you, keeping them in a carrier is required. Make sure your pet is comfortable in that space before bringing them on a plane. Bring extra dog potty pads in case your pet has an accident.

Even though your pet won’t have the opportunity to urinate, do NOT restrict their water before a flight. Dehydration can make pets very sick, not to mention uncomfortable and irritable when they arrive at your destination.

On that note, make sure your pet is wearing identification at all times, and pack an emergency cat first aid or dog first aid kit in case of an emergency. Don’t forget to take frequent breaks to allow for rest and relief.

Check Out Boarding Facilities

Before choosing a boarding facility for your pet, take a quick tour of the facility to check out the accommodations. You will want to be sure that it is clean and well kept, and that there is ample space given for the animals to exercise daily.

Have your questions ready before you go. Things you may want to know are: how many animals are kept together in one space; can you bring your pet’s food so that his digestive system will not be upset by an abrupt change in food; will you be able to bring along toys and other familiar comfort objects from home?

If you do not feel comfortable with a boarding facility, whether for your pet’s emotional comfort or because of health concerns, and you do not have the option of taking your pet along with you, give yourself plenty of time to ask around the neighborhood for someone to pet sit in your home or theirs.

Find Reliable Pet Sitters

You can also do some research on local professional pet sitters that will come to your home to check in and care for your pet, or will take your pet into their home. Your veterinarian may be a good source for recommendations for in-home pet sitters.

Whether your pet goes somewhere or someone comes to stay in your home, that person needs as much information as you can provide about your pet’s daily needs. It is always helpful to write out instructions for both the daily routine and situations that may occur (such as a pet who doesn’t want to eat or how to use the laundry machine if your pet has an accident).

Provide your number, vet numbers, emergency vet numbers and backup phone numbers in case you are unreachable. The better prepared you are, the less holiday stress there will be for you and your pet, and the better your celebrations will be.

Stick With the Usual Routine

One of the best things you can do throughout it all is to stick to a familiar schedule. This means taking walks at the same time that you always do, and feeding at the same time as usual. It might help to set an alarm or reminder on your phone to remind you of daily pet tasks (like giving medications) during hectic holidays. Remember that it is important to take time to play with your pets and show affection, so that they aren’t thrown off-balance by all of the activity and distractions.

I grew up thinking dogs saw only black and white. That their vision was better at night because of that. Of course over time I read that they could see some color etc.

Below is an article on dogs vision by PetMD

How Do Dogs See the World? 

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Written by:Mindy Joyner, DVMPUBLISHED: OCTOBER 29, 2021FacebookTwitterPinterest

You may be under the assumption that because dogs can hear better than us, they can probably see better than us, too. But that’s not necessarily the case.

Let’s take a look at the anatomy of a dogs eye and how a dog’s eyesight compares to ours—from seeing colors to side vision and seeing in the dark.

Dog Eye Anatomy

The anatomy of a dog’s eye is very similar to that of a human eye. Dogs have an upper and lower eyelid, the same as people.

There are many other similarities, including:

  • Sclera: Tough, fibrous layer that’s often referred to as the “white” of the eye
  • Cornea: Thin, clear layer at the front of the eye that can be injured easily
  • Conjunctiva: Lining of the eyelids that can become inflamed and pink in color when dogs get excited, have allergies, or have an eye infection
  • Iris: Colored part of the eye that contains smooth muscle and controls the size of pupil, regulating how much light enters the eye
  • Pupil: Black area in the center of the iris; It contracts (gets smaller) in bright light or dilates (gets bigger) in dim light
  • Lens: Located behind the iris; it changes shape to focus light on the retina
  • Retina: Located in the back of the eye; it contains photoreceptors called rods, which sense light and movement, and other photoreceptors called cones, which sense colors

Dogs also have eye structures that people lack:

  • Tapetum lucidum: Located behind the retina, the tapetum lucidum reflects light through the retina, increasing the light available to the photoreceptors. This why animals see better at night, and it makes an animal’s eyes appear to glow at night when lights reflect from the animal’s eye.
  • Third eyelid: Known as the nictitating membrane, the third eyelid is whitish in color and is located at the corner of the eye, near the nose. It helps protect the eye from scratches and also moves across the eye when a dog blinks to help produce tears.

What Eye Colors Can a Dog Have?

The iris, or colored part of a dog’s eye, can be brown, blue, golden, or hazel. Brown is the dominant color for most dogs. Dogs can have two different-colored eyes, which most often occurs in dogs with a merle coat pattern, or in certain breeds such as Huskies or Australian Shepherds.

If a dog has light-colored (blue) eyes, it does not mean that they will have vision problems, blindness, or any other health concerns. The iris pigmentation can vary depending on breed, color of the face, and genetics.

How Good Is Dog Vision?

How does a dog’s vision compare to ours? There’s no simple answer, since dogs have worse eyesight in some respects, but better eyesight in other areas. Here’s how a dog’s eyesight stacks up when it comes to visual acuity, peripheral vision, detecting movement, seeing colors, and seeing in the dark.

Do Dogs Have 20/20 Eyesight?  

Dogs cannot see objects as well as humans. Normal human vision is 20/20. Most dogs have a visual acuity of 20/75, meaning a dog has to be 20 feet away to see an object as well as a person can see at 75 feet away. Labrador Retrievers, which are a breed commonly used as seeing-eye dogs for humans, have better eyesight that is closer to 20/20.

Are Dogs Near-Sighted or Far-Sighted?

A dog’s vision is blurry. If a dog were a human, they would be considered near-sighted and would need glasses to see objects farther away, like the board in the front of the classroom or a road sign.

How Well Can Dogs See Moving Objects?

Dogs have more rods in the retina than humans do. Rods are sensitive to shape, movement, and dim light. Dogs can see moving objects much better than stationary objects, and they have 10-20 times greater motion sensitivity than humans.

Dogs can pick up on small changes in body posture and movement as a result. This is one reason why dogs can be trained with silent cues using hand gestures.

Can Dogs See in the Dark?

Dogs have several anatomical advantages that allow them to see better in the dark than we can:

  • More rods in their retina, which function better in dim light
  • Larger pupils that allow more light into the eye
  • A lens that is closer to the retina, making the image brighter
  • The tapetum lucidum, which reflects light, allowing for better night vision

Can Dogs See Color?

Dogs can see color, but only in shades of blue and yellow. Because dogs can only see two colors, they have dichromatic vision. They can also see shades of gray. Colors such as red, orange, and green are out of a dog’s color spectrum, so these colors are not visible to dogs. This is why hunters can wear orange to be visible to other hunters but not to animals. People have what’s called trichromatic vision, which means we can see a lot more colors than dogs.

Do Dogs Have Side Vision?

A dog’s eyes are spaced slightly farther apart than ours, at a 20-degree angle. This greater angle increases the field of view and therefore a dog’s peripheral (side) vision.

How Do You Check a Dog’s Vision?

Dogs can’t read an eyechart, nor do they need to be able to read or write. Because they have less need for good eyesight, known as visual acuity, checking a dog’s vision is very basic.

If a dog can walk into a room through the door or navigate an obstacle course in an exam room in bright and dim light, they are said to have decent vision. Dog eye specialists, or veterinary ophthalmologists, can perform dog eye exams, check their vision, and perform surgery to help dogs see better, such as cataract surgery.

Keeping up with portion control. This article of Is for our cat friends.
How to Calculate How Much Wet Food to Feed a Cat
Profile picture for user Dr. Jennifer Coates
Written by:
Jennifer Coates, DVM
PUBLISHED: NOVEMBER 02, 2018

Sharing your life with a cat is certainly rewarding. There’s nothing quite like cozying up with your four-legged fluffball after a long day’s work.
But being a pet parent carries with it a lot of responsibility, too, especially when it comes to determining how much food to feed a cat. Feeding cats is more complicated than simply ladling out a few kibbles here and there; you need to consider several factors, especially if you choose to give your cat wet food. Determining how much wet food to feed a cat can get complicated, but we’re here to help.
Why It’s Crucial to Calculate How Much Food to Feed a Cat
You might wonder why it’s important to determine the exact amount of wet cat food you should give your cat? As of 2017, an estimated 60 percent of cats in the US are classified as clinically overweight or obese. That’s about 56.5 million cats who are too heavy, and extra weight has a dramatic, negative effect on feline health.
Overweight cats are at an increased risk for congestive heart failure, skin disorders, infections, diabetes mellitus, complications associated with anesthesia and surgery, hepatic lipidosis (a potentially fatal liver disease), and some types of cancer.
Feeding cats wet food is never as simple as just opening up a can and letting them eat until they’re full. Indoor cats, in particular, tend to burn few calories throughout the day, and they become bored, which we all know can lead to excessive eating and weight gain. Pet parents need to take a strategic approach to measuring out cat food to prevent or deal with weight gain in cats.
How Much Wet Food Should I Feed My Cat?
For starters, have your cat evaluated by a veterinarian. He or she will weigh your cat, identify your cat’s ideal weight, and determine the number of calories your cat should take in every day to reach that goal.
A pet calorie calculator can also get you into the ballpark. If your cat is severely overweight, your veterinarian may recommend a prescription cat food for weight loss; otherwise an over-the-counter weight control cat food should suffice.
Next, look at the label of your cat’s wet food. At best, the feeding instructions will be somewhat vague, and they certainly don’t apply to every cat in every situation. It helps do some math. A wet cat food’s caloric content should be listed somewhere on the label.
For example, American Journey minced chicken and tuna recipe provides 73 calories per 3-ounce can. If you can’t find this information, look it up on the manufacturer’s website or give them a call.
Let’s say your veterinarian has determined that your cat should take in 240 calories per day. In this example, you simply need to divide 240 by 73 to determine how many 3-ounce cans of the American Journey chicken and tuna recipe you should offer your cat daily.
240 / 73 = 3.3
Therefore, your cat needs to eat roughly 3 1/3 cans of this food per day.
Cat Food Portions Matter
Cats who have a hard time keeping slim should be fed several measured meals of cat food throughout the day rather than having 24/7 access to food.
How often should you feed your cat? You and your veterinarian can discuss the right frequency based on your situation. But, in general, cats do best when they eat multiple smaller meals throughout the day—two at a minimum, but more might be better.
The math that you just performed can help inform your decision. In the example that we’ve used, the cat should be eating 3 1/3 cans per day. Wouldn’t it make sense to feed three meals of one can each with the extra third of a can added to the last meal of the day? Whatever you decide, simply divide the number of cans you need to feed in a day by the number of meals you want to provide, and you’ll have the right portion for each meal.
If you’re watching your cat’s weight, you’ll also need to subtract the calories provided by any treats you give as well as any dry food you offer. If it helps, keep a log of your cat’s daily caloric intake goals and then track the food and cat treats you give throughout the day to help keep your cat’s weight on track.
Small-Portion Wet Cat Food Trays
Foods that are already divided into meal-sized portions, like Sheba Perfect Portions grain-free multipack and Nutro Perfect Portions grain-free multipack can reduce the chances that you will inadvertently feed too much at any one time.
And if your pet’s food comes in cans and you have leftovers, the Petmate Kitty Kap can cover fits four sizes of cans. It will keep wet cat food fresh in the fridge until your cat’s next scheduled meal.
*** I apologize the graphic would not transfer. Here is the link to the article.
https://www.petmd.com/cat/nutrition/how-calculate-how-much-wet-food-feed-cat?utm_source=NewsletterSubscribers&utm_medium=Email&utm_content=083121Newsletter&utm_campaign=Newsletter

Dog healthy weight

I am going through this with Trixie. Her weight is going up and she is still getting exercise and we are giving her the same food. We have next to stopped her bail play because her backend hurts.

Her vet said she has gained weight. From 48 to 53. If she doesn’t lose weight in the next three months he is going to check her thyroid again.

Weight is important to our animals and just a few unwanted pounds changes their life. From PetMed have a good read.

How to Calculate Your Dog’s Healthy Weight
Profile picture for user Dr. Natalie Stilwell
Written by:
Natalie Stilwell, DVM, MS, PhD
PUBLISHED: DECEMBER 04, 2019
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A wide range of body sizes and types exist among dog breeds, which makes it hard to determine the “average” dog weight. For example, the graceful Greyhound and the short-legged Basset Hound may both weigh 60 pounds, but these two breeds have different physiques and metabolic needs.

So instead of comparing your dog’s weight to a generic chart, veterinary research groups have come up with a better way. They’ve conducted nutritional studies that have shown that an animal’s target weight is best estimated using a combination of body weight and body condition score (BCS).

Step 1: Calculate Your Dog’s Body Condition Score

The Body Condition Score is a popular tool used to estimate the amount of fat on the body. Canine BCS is most commonly evaluated on a 9-point scale, and dogs that score in the middle of the scale (a 4 or 5 out of 9) have a healthy body condition.

Dogs scoring 1 to 3 are considered too thin, whereas a score of 6 or 7 implies that a dog is overweight. Obese dogs typically receive BCS scores of 8 or 9, and it is possible for morbidly obese dogs to have a BCS greater than 9.

BCS is evaluated by examining the ribs, abdomen and waistline by sight, and more importantly, by touch.

The ribs should be palpable and covered by minimal amounts of fat. When viewed from above, the dog’s waistline should be visible by a subtle inward curve behind the ribs.

A side view of the dog should reveal an “abdominal tuck,” or a slight upward curve of the belly behind the ribs.

Overweight dogs will have excess fat covering the ribs and will lack a noticeable waistline or abdominal tuck. In contrast, underweight dogs will have an accentuated waistline and abdominal tuck, and the ribs, pelvis and vertebrae will be prominent and lack any palpable fat.

Step 2: Calculate Your Dog’s Target Weight

Now that you know your dog’s BCS, you can use it to figure out their ideal weight. This method was created by researchers at the University of Liverpool and Royal Canin.

Use the following steps to estimate your dog’s ideal weight:

Steps

Example: 50-lb. dog with BCS of 9

  1. Take your dog’s starting BCS and subtract 5.

9-5 = 4

  1. Multiply that number by 10.

4 x 10 = 40

  1. Add 100.

40 + 100 = 140

  1. Divide 100 by the result from Step 3. Round to 3 digits.

100 / 140 = .714

  1. Multiply that by your dog’s current weight.

.714 x 50 pounds = 35.7 pounds

Dog’s Target Weight:

35.7 pounds

Here’s the formula we used for the calculations in the table above:

Healthy dog weight formula

Let’s enter the 50-pound dog’s numbers into this formula:

example of healthy weight calculation for dogs

According to the calculation, this 50-pound dog’s target weight (after weight loss) is 35.7 pounds. If the dog had a different BCS, their target weight would be different.

Why It’s Important to Know Your Dog’s Ideal Weight
Knowing your dog’s ideal body weight can help you plan a successful weight loss program, or it can let you know what your pet should weigh if your pet is underweight or losing weight inexplicably.

Pets That Need to Lose Weight

Pet weight loss programs usually involve some degree of calorie restriction in order to help your dog lose weight at a gradual pace. By having a target body weight in mind, your veterinarian can help estimate your dog’s daily caloric needs so that you know exactly how much to feed your dog.

Through diet modification and regular exercise, your dog’s metabolic needs will likely change as he begins to lose weight. This is why regular monitoring, including monthly weigh-ins and BCS measurements, are important to help your pet reach his target body condition in a safe and healthy manner.

Underweight Pets

Determining your pet’s body score and ideal weight can also help pets that are underweight. If your pet is not at the weight they should be, you can work with your veterinarian to find out if you should be increasing their food intake or whether it’s caused by an underlying health issue.

Weight loss that has no apparent reason can be a result of many different conditions, including parasites, cancer, kidney disease, advanced heart disease, diabetes, Addison’s disease, GI problems, dental disease, stress or changes in diet.

Whether your pet is overweight or underweight, your vet can help figure out the issue and tailor recommendations to their individual needs.

Featured Image: iStock.com/primeimages

Cold weather. A good read

From PetMD

How Cold Is Too Cold for Your Dog?

Profile picture for user Dr. Jennifer Coates

Written by:Jennifer Coates, DVMPUBLISHED: NOVEMBER 03, 2016FacebookTwitterPinterest

Image via iStock.com/Prystal

By Jennifer Coates, DVM

We all know that exercise and the mental stimulation being outdoors play are key to keeping our dogs healthy and happy, but what should we do when it’s cold outside? When do the risks of spending time in the cold outweigh the benefits of being outdoors? Let’s take a look at the dangers associated with winter weather and how we can still safely enjoy the great outdoors with our dogs during wintertime.

All Dogs Aren’t Created Equal

Dogs are individuals. An outdoor temperature that feels downright balmy to one dog might send another in search of shelter. What are some of the variables that affect how dogs respond to the cold?

Coat type – Dogs with thick, double-layered coats tend to be the most cold-tolerant (think Siberian Huskies, Newfoundlands or Samoyeds). In most cases, these breeds have been developed in Northern climates and may also have other anatomical, physiological or behavioral attributes that allow them to thrive when it’s frigid. On the other hand, dogs who have exceptionally thin coats (e.g., Greyhounds and Xoloitzcuintli) suffer the most in cold weather.

Coat color – On a clear day, black, brown, or other dark-coated dogs can absorb significant amounts of heat from sunlight, keeping them warmer in comparison to their light-coated brethren.

Size – Small dogs have a larger surface area to volume ratio. In other words, the smaller dogs are the more skin they have (in relation to their “insides”) through which to lose heat. Therefore, small dogs get colder more readily than do large dogs … all other things being equal.

Weight – Body fat is a good insulator. Thinner dogs tend to get colder quicker than do their heftier counterparts. That said, the health risks of being overweight far outweigh any benefits, so don’t fatten up your dogs during the winter months in a misguided attempt to protect them from the cold.

Conditioning – We’ve all experienced this one. Fifty degrees feels quite chilly in October, but after a long, cold winter, a fifty degree day in April can make us break out the shorts and t-shirts. Dogs who are used to cold temperatures handle them much better than do pets who aren’t.

Age and Health – The very young, the very old, and the sick are not as able to regulate their body temperatures in comparison to healthy dogs in the prime of their lives, and they therefore need greater protection from the cold.

All Temperatures Aren’t Created Equal

The temperature as it registers on a thermometer isn’t the only environmental factor that affects how dogs feel the cold.

Wind chill – A brisk breeze can quickly cut through a dog’s coat and greatly decreases its ability to insulate and protect against cold temperatures.

Dampness – Rain, wet snow, heavy fog, going for a swim … any form of dampness that soaks through the fur can quickly chill a dog even if the air temperature is not all that cold.

Cloud cover – Cloudy days tend to feel colder than do sunny days since dogs can’t soak up the sun and warm themselves.

Activity – If dogs are going to be very active while outside, they may generate enough extra body heat to keep them comfortable even if the temperature is quite low.

Cold Temperature Guidelines for Dogs

In general, cold temperatures should not become a problem for most dogs until they fall below 45° F, at which point some cold-averse dogs might begin to feel uncomfortable. When temperatures fall below 32° F, owners of small breed dogs, dogs with thin coats, and/or very young, old or sick dogs should pay close attention to their pet’s well-being. Once temperatures drop under 20° F, all owners need to be aware that their dogs could potentially develop cold-associated health problems like hypothermia and frostbite.

The best way to monitor dogs when it’s cold is to keep a close eye on their behavior. If you notice your dog shivering, acting anxious, whining, slowing down, searching out warm locations or holding up one or more paws, it’s time to head inside.

Halloween tips and reminders from PetMD

Halloween Safety Tips: What Not to Do to Your Pet on Halloween

Profile picture for user samkschwab

Written by:PetMD EditorialPUBLISHED: JULY 17, 2018UPDATED: JULY 17, 2018 Vet Reviewed by: Katie Grzyb, DVMFacebookTwitterPinterest

Halloween is a fun holiday for the whole family and you’ll likely want to include your favorite four-legged friend in on the celebration. However, it’s imperative that pet parents practice Halloween safety for pets on the spookiest day of the year. This includes never putting your pet in a situation that could endanger her.

You may be eager to get your pet in on the fun, but to help keep them safe this Halloween, here are five things you should never do to your pet on Halloween.

1. Never Put Them in Uncomfortable Pet Costumes

There is nothing more adorable than a cat or dog wearing a costume. That said, there are a few things you should keep in mind before assuming that your kitty or doggy will be okay with dressing up for Halloween.

“First you have to consider your pet’s personality and overall behavior,” says Dr. Carly Fox, DVM, a staff doctor at New York City’s Animal Medical Center who specializes in emergency and critical care. “Some animals are totally fine being dressed up, but others are not.”

This comes down to knowing how to interpret your pet’s body language in order to determine if wearing a costume will be too overwhelming or upsetting for them.

If you have a pet who doesn’t mind costumes, you should look for costumes that don’t limit your pet’s movement, hearing, eyesight, or their ability to eat or drink water.

You should also make sure that pet costumes that are the correct size. A costume that’s too loose could cause your pet to trip or get stuck on something, and a costume that’s too tight is very uncomfortable and could cause irritation by rubbing against your pet’s skin.

Banfield Pet Hospital’s Dr. Kathryn Boyle, DVM, adds to these Halloween pet safety tips, suggesting to “Be mindful of accessories, such as strings, capes or belts, which can get caught in objects in your house.”

Dr. Fox notes that it isn’t an “all or nothing” situation. “Maybe your dog is fine wearing something around her neck, but will not wear a hat. You just have to know your animal and be mindful of their comfort.”

Both Dr. Fox and Dr. Boyle add that you should watch your pet closely and never leave her alone while she is wearing a costume.

If your pet isn’t into an all-out costume, bandana-based costumes such as the Tail Trends Crockett formal bowtie bandanaand the Dog Fashion Living Hero dog and cat bandana can be a great compromise.

2. Never Use Dangerous Halloween Decorations

While Halloween is a particularly fun holiday to decorate for, both Dr. Fox and Dr. Boyle caution that certain decorations pose a risk to pet safety.

“Decorations can result in a scary situation for pets,” Dr. Boyle says. “Tinsel, ribbon and string are dangers for pets, as they may cause severe injury to the intestinal tract if swallowed. Keep electric twinkle lights and extension cords elevated to a height your pet can’t reach to avoid chewing. Pets can also burn themselves or knock over a candle, creating a fire hazard, so keep lit candles or pumpkins far from wagging tails and curious noses and whiskers.”

Dr. Fox adds that the dried corn decorations that are popular not just for Halloween, but throughout the fall season, can be extremely dangerous for dogs. “Halloween is a busy time for us in the emergency room, and I’ve seen a lot of dogs that have ingested these decorations. The dried corn can cause an intestinal obstruction, which is extremely serious.”

3. Never Serve Food That’s Toxic to Dogs

Dr. Boyle says that while most pet safety rules specify not giving your animals “people food,” certain Halloween treats are especially dangerous for pets. These include chocolate, which contains theobromine, a substance that can be toxic to pets, as well as raisins, candy, and plastic and foil packaging. “Foil wrappers can become as dangerous as razors when swallowed,” she says.

Dr. Fox notes that if you’re having a party, you should also be very careful that your dog or cat doesn’t get into any appetizers on toothpicks or skewers. “These can be very dangerous if ingested,” she says.

To ensure pet safety, Dr. Fox suggests keeping food on high surfaces that your pet cannot reach and avoiding leaving candy and people food on lower areas like a coffee table.

She also says that if you’re having a Halloween party, you cannot expect your guests to know or remember to follow pet safety rules. “People who don’t have dogs or cats are not aware that certain foods—like chocolate and grapes—are toxic to pets. I would suggest not serving those foods at a party, just in case.”

4. Never Use Human Hair Dye on Pets

Over the past few years, dyeing your pet has become a bit of a trend around Halloween. However, neither Dr. Boyle nor Dr. Fox recommend dyeing pets for the holiday.

 “It can be unnecessarily stressful for the pet, and many dyes contain toxins that can irritate your pet’s skin,” Dr. Boyle says.

Dr. Fox agrees and adds that if you have your heart set on dyeing your pet, you should work with a groomer. “Groomers know what’s best for your dog’s fur and skin, and they’re the ones with the experience,” she says. “A lot of dogs have sensitive skin, and a lot of them have allergies, so you need to keep that in mind before deciding to dye.”

Never, ever use a dye that wasn’t specifically formulated for use on cats and dogs.

5. Never Take Your Anxious Dog Trick-or-Treating

Of course, one of the best parts of Halloween is going trick-or-treating. However, if you want to take your dog with you, you should be sure he’s comfortable in crowded areas and won’t be overwhelmed by kids roaming the streets.

“A long walk on Halloween is really nice for a dog that’s used to kids and lots of people,” Dr. Fox says.

Even if your pet is usually fine in crowds, it is important to keep in mind that on Halloween, everyone is in costumes. That means your pup will be exposed to masks, wigs, elaborate makeup and other elements that your pet is most likely not accustomed to. So keep your pet’s comfort in the forefront of your mind when making decisions about taking them out on Halloween.

Besides going trick-or-treating with your pet, another option would be to attend a pet-focused event, like a dog parade. “You don’t even have to dress your dog up; you can just go and bring them to be a part of the festivities and see all the other dogs in costume,” Dr. Fox says.

While Halloween can be a great night out for dogs, Dr. Fox does note that the same does not hold true for cats. “If your cat goes outside, I recommend keeping him in on Halloween. You never know what’s going to happen—there are a lot of people out, many of who may have been drinking. It’s just safer for kitties to be indoors on Halloween.”

Image via AnnyStudio/Shutterstock.com

By Kate HughesFacebookTwitterPinterest

Hmmmm dream state…?from our friends at PetMD

I think we all had/have an idea of them dreaming. Personally I stop myself from walking them up. It seems like a bad dream when they start making the woofing and sounds during there kicking. Some joke they are changing the proverbial rabbit. I think they are having a bad dream depending on the sounds he/she is making

I honestly don’t know if anyone person can say what a dog dreams or how they tell. I’m taking this with some being obvious. He/she is dreaming and if you have ever had a dog who has had a seizure you know the difference. Our Rocky had them and it was awful. It is a full body movement. His were so extreme medication could not control them. It was felt he had a brain aneurism or another in his brain. He was physically fine. Kids it is my hope you never experience it. No matter you will know the difference so don’t let this article scare you. It will happen other than in their sleep movement take them to emergency – not your vet but an emergency care facility so they can see it happen.

And here if the article….

Why Do Dogs Twitch in Their Sleep?

Profile picture for user Dr. Teresa Manucy

Written by:Teresa Manucy, DVMPUBLISHED: SEPTEMBER 27, 2021FacebookTwitterPinterest

You may have noticed sudden, brief twitching at some point while your dog was sleeping and wondered if they were dreaming or even expressing some type of discomfort.

These involuntary movements—where a dog is twitching in their sleep—only occur during dream states and usually don’t last long. Twitching can happen anywhere in your dog’s body but commonly occurs in the legs, tail, or head. It may be accompanied by small vocalizations.

So is twitching just a normal part of dreaming, or are there times when you should worry?

Why Do Dogs Twitch in Their Sleep?    

Dogs sleep an average of 12-14 hours each day. While they sleep, a dog’s brain processes information and experiences from the day through dreams. Twitching is often related to active dream cycles in the brain.

According to research by psychologist Stanley Coren, an average-size dog will dream about every 20 minutes, and these dreams will last about a minute. Larger breeds have fewer dreams that last longer—about every 45 minutes for 4 minutes. The opposite is true for smaller breed dogs; they will dream about every 10 minutes for up to 30 seconds.

Dogs experience the same dream stages as humans, including non-rapid eye movement (NREM), short-wave sleep (SWS), and rapid eye movement (REM). During the REM state, a dog’s eyes move around behind their closed eyelids, and the large body muscles are turned off so the dream is not physically acted out.

The part of the brain that contains these off switches is called the pons, which is part of the brain stem. In younger dogs, the pons may still be developing, while in older dogs it may be weakening from age. This is why twitching while sleeping occurs most commonly in younger and older dogs and less often in adult dogs.

The amount of twitching depends on how much these off switches inhibit muscle movement. Puppies spend more time in dream sleep than adult dogs because they need to process more information.

Dogs that sleep in a curled position will keep their muscles tensed and are less relaxed, which may cause them to twitch less than a dog that sleeps in a stretched-out position. Any outside stimulation from loud noises such as thunder, fireworks, or strange voices may partially awaken a sleeping dog and result in twitching as well.

Should You Wake Your Dog Up If They Twitch in Their Sleep?

If your dog sleeps next to you, they may unintentionally disturb your sleep with their sudden body movements. However, it is often advised to not awaken a dog that is twitching in their sleep unless they are clearly in distress.

A nightmare or night terror could be the cause of these involuntary movements, and they may wake up frightened. Try to avoid touching them so they don’t bite or scratch you as a result of being startled.

Instead, gently call your dog’s name until they respond. Speak calmly and reassure them that they are safe and secure after they wake up. While they appear to be pretty active in their sleep, dreaming dogs may be slow to awaken.

When Should You Be Concerned About a Dog Twitching in Their Sleep?

You should be concerned when the twitching interferes with your dog’s sleep. They may be unable to fall sleep or constantly awakened during sleep.

Another cause for concern is when the twitching becomes a full-body tremor, causing the body to go rigid or lasting longer than a brief spasm. In this case, there may be another explanation for the twitching, such as:

  • Seizure or other neurologic condition
  • Infection with parasites, bacteria, or viruses
  • Malnutrition
  • Diabetes
  • Low blood sugar
  • Low body temperature
  • Kidney and liver issues
  • Certain heart conditions
  • Anxiety
  • Arthritis
  • Poison ingestion

Ingesting topical or environmental pesticides or toxic foods may also cause twitches or tremors in dogs. If you suspect that your dog has had exposure to a toxin or has any other underlying medical condition, then an immediate veterinary exam is necessary for diagnosis and appropriate treatment.

What’s the Difference Between Twitching and a Seizure When a Dog is Sleeping?

During normal sleep, a dog’s body will be flexible and relaxed, and they will be breathing normally, with their eyes partially or completely closed. They should awaken easily and respond to voices.

Normal twitching usually occurs when a dog is lying on their side, paddling their paws, and possibly making little noises. You may notice irregular breathing when your dog starts twitching.

Seizures usually occur while dogs are awake. To determine whether twitching during sleep is due to a seizure, look for the following signs:

  • A stiffening of the body
  • Labored breathing
  • Eyes wide open but not reacting
  • Loss of consciousness with no response to your voice
  • Loss of control of urine and bowel movements
  • Foaming at the mouth
  • Vomiting

Dogs may temporarily act confused, disoriented, or dazed, and they may drool or pant after the seizure activity has ended.

Dew claws …. Finally an explanation

As you know I post PetMed stories because they are relevant to us to our four legged family members. This is again shown with this article Dew Claws. Many, almost all of us don’t understand them. I was excited to see this article. Happy reading.

5 Things You Need to Know About Dog Dewclaws

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Written by:Jennifer Coates, DVMPUBLISHED: MARCH 21, 2017FacebookTwitterPinterest

By Jennifer Coates, DVM

Take a look at your dog’s feet. How many toenails do you see? Most dogs have four nails on each rear foot and five on their front feet. That extra nail on the upper, inner part of a dog’s foot is the dewclaw. Did you come up with a different total? Have no fear, some dogs have dewclaws on their rear feet or even double dewclaws. Read on to learn if your dog’s dewclaws might pose a potential problem and what you can about it.

What are Dewclaws?

Dewclaws are essentially the thumbs and big toes of the dog world. They are not directly equivalent to the human structures, of course, but they are similar. Looking at a dog’s front foot, the toes that are in contact with the ground while standing correspond to our pinky, ring finger, middle finger, and index finger. The dewclaw is the “thumb.” The same is true for the canine hind foot with the dewclaw being the “big toe.”

An important distinction to make is whether or not the dewclaws are firmly attached to a dog’s foot. In general, if your dog has a single front dewclaw, it will be. You’ll be able to wiggle the dewclaw a little bit (mostly in a forward and backward motion), but you can feel the bones that connect it to the leg. Rear and double dewclaws tend to only be attached by skin and are much more mobile.

Do Dewclaws Have a Purpose?

A dewclaw that is attached by bone to a dog’s front foot has a definite purpose. When dogs run, their front feet often bend to the point where their dewclaws come in contact with the ground. At high speeds (especially when turning) or on slippery surfaces, these dewclaws provide extra traction and help stabilize the carpal (wrist) joint. Some dogs also use their dewclaws to help them climb trees, hold objects to better chew on them, or climb out of the water if they’ve broken through ice. The usefulness of dewclaws that are only attached by skin is less clear.

Should Dewclaws be Removed?

Because front dewclaws serve an important purpose, they should not be removed unless there is a very good reason to do so. In rare cases, a dog’s dewclaw may be severely injured or develop a disease (e.g., a cancerous tumor) and removal under those circumstances would certainly be in the dog’s best interests. These problems occur so infrequently, however, that removing healthy front dewclaws to prevent them makes little sense.

It is more common for veterinarians to remove loosely attached double or rear dewclaws to prevent injury. The actual incidence of these types of injuries is still quite low, so the value of these surgeries is up for debate. Typically the surgery is scheduled at the same time the dog is being spayed or neutered (while it is anesthetized).

Some breeds of dogs routinely have their dewclaws removed to “improve” their appearance in the show ring. If you choose to have this procedure performed it should done when a puppy is under 5 days of age and only after the area has been numbed with a local anesthetic (e.g., EMLA cream).

Keep in mind that removing the dewclaws in other breeds, like Great Pyrenees, disqualifies them from the show ring.

Treating Dewclaw Injuries

While dewclaw injuries are relatively rare, they certainly do occur. Any nail can become partially or completely pulled off, broken, split, infected, or ingrown (if not properly trimmed). Since most nail injuries are extremely painful and prone to infection (think of all the places your dog’s feet have been!), it is usually best to have them assessed by a veterinarian. He or she can remove damaged nails or trim ingrown ones (under sedation, if necessary), and prescribe any needed antibiotics and pain relievers.

How to Maintain Dewclaws

When it comes to maintenance, dewclaws are no different than your dog’s other nails. Dogs who are extremely active may wear down their nails, including their dewclaws, to the point where nail trims are not necessary. But for most pets who are relatively sedentary, regular trims are needed to keep their nails at a healthy length. Keep an especially close eye on the dewclaw. Since they are not in contact with the ground as frequently as the other nails, they may require more frequent trims.

Fur Balls….. article from PerMD

I always felt bad for my cats when they had a fur ball. Luckily it didn’t happen very often. However, other cats aren’t so lucky. Everyone knows what causes them and there are ways to help your cats have an easier time passing them.


How To Treat Cat Hairballs

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Written by:Sara Bledsoe, DVM, CVA, CHPVPUBLISHED: JULY 30, 2020FacebookTwitterPinterest

As a cat parent, you have probably experienced your cat having hairballs occasionally. Cats will typically vomit a long, tubular mass of hair when coughing up a hairball. This can be distressing for both you and your cat. Here are a few ways to help treat and prevent cat hairballs.

What Causes Cat Hairballs?

When a cat grooms, they will typically swallow hair. Some of the hair will pass thorough their digestive tract and into their feces with no complications.

In some cats, the hair will collect in their stomach and develop into a hairball. After hair has accumulated in the stomach and a hairball is formed, it will then be vomited as a long, tubular hair mass that may be covered in slimy mucus.

In some cats, hairballs can become large and cause an obstruction in their gastrointestinal (GI) tract.

Are Cat Hairballs Normal?

If your cat is having hairballs, you’re not alone. Hairballs can be normal for most cats, whether they have short or long hair.

It is not normal for cats to vomit frequently. If the vomiting episodes become more frequent or persistent, or if your cat is not eating, they should be seen by their regular veterinarian for an exam.

Other underlying diseases that can cause vomiting in cats include a bacterial overgrowth, intestinal parasites, inflammatory bowel disease, or GI lymphoma.

What to Do if Your Cat Has Hairballs

If your cat is frequently coughing up hairballs, contact your veterinarian. Here are some cat hairball remedies and treatments that you might try:

  • Laxatone: This is a palatable oral gel that can help bind hair in the stomach and make it easier for the hair to pass through your cat’s GI tract. These gels can help with hairballs in some cats.
  • Over-the-Counter (OTC) Hairball Diets: Certain cat food formulas are marketed to help prevent and/or control hairballs. These diets are usually high in fiber and help keep the GI motility normal. A few OTC diets include: Purina Pro Plan Focus Adult Hairball Management or Royal Canin Hairball Care for cats. These diets may be helpful for some cats.
  • Prescription Diets: If your cat has difficulty expelling hairballs, then you should talk to your cat’s regular veterinarian about options for prescription diets or food additives that may be helpful.

How To Prevent Your Cat From Having Hairballs

One of the best ways to prevent your cat from having hairballs is to groom your cat frequently. Combing and/or brushing your cat’s coat helps to remove the loose hair, which reduces the amount of hair your cat ingests.

Limiting the amount of hair your cat swallows can help decrease the hairball formation in their stomach. The FURminator deShedding Edge Cat Brushis a great grooming tool to consider. It helps to gently remove the undercoat and loose hairs on your cat.

Both short-haired and long-haired breeds can have hairballs. It is especially important for long-haired cats to be brushed daily.

Regular brushing will help to minimize the mats and tangles that your cat will try to resolve on their own. Spending some extra quality time each day to brush your cat will help reduce and/or prevent hairballs, and it helps promote bonding.

What it takes to be a veterinarian

I was happy to see this article something everyone should look at. We trust doctors because they are doctors for us or our pet. What a fabulous article. Next time you see your vet say thank you, take a gift.

8 Things People Don’t Realize About Being a Veterinarian

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Written by:PetMD EditorialPUBLISHED: APRIL 17, 2019UPDATED: APRIL 17, 2019 Vet Reviewed by: Jennifer Coates, DVMFacebookTwitterPinterest

If you’re reading this, you probably love animals, and you might have said at some point as a kid, “I should be a vet!”

Many children, as well as plenty of adults, are sure that being a veterinarian—spending each day helping and healing animals—would be more magnificent than even winning the lottery.

But the requirements for being a veterinarian go way beyond having boundless puppy (or parrot) love. From completing undergraduate and graduate veterinary training to building courage and emotional strength, there is much more to becoming a veterinarian than meets the eye.

Here’s what you should know if you’ve always wanted to become a veterinarian.

1. Becoming a Veterinarian Requires Extensive Training

Becoming a veterinarian means getting a lengthy education, inside and outside of classrooms. “I always found every way I could to spend my time helping animals,” says Dr. Liz Bales of Red Lion Veterinary Hospital in Newark, Delaware.

Dr. Bales’ decision to become a veterinarian required a lot of work before she even got to veterinary school. It meant researching different universities’ pre-vet requirements, then excelling in a rigorous undergraduate curriculum of biology, calculus, chemistry, organic chemistry and more.

Dr. Bales explains that she had to pass all the typical standardized testing to get into the right university program so that she could pursue her veterinary career in the PennVet program. “Additionally, I volunteered outside of college with a veterinarian during all of my free time—holidays and summer,” she explains.

To prepare for the many years of education and training, Dr. Emily Nielsen of Stahl Exotic Animal Veterinary Services in Fairfax, Virginia, advises young clients who want to become vets to “spend time at a vet clinic or an animal shelter and try to find a mentor.”

2. In General, Veterinarians Have to Be Specialists in Multiple Fields

“What people don’t know about vets is that we specialize in everything and anything, whether it’s dental issues or an eye problem or cancer,” says Dr. Alex Klein of Alison Animal Hospital in Brooklyn, New York.

Dr. Klein explains that people bring in pets with a wide variety of symptoms and rely on veterinarians to be able to identify what the underlying causes are. “That’s what makes it so hard, because we see everything, and we try to know about and do it all for our clients,” says Dr. Klein.

For extremely difficult or rarer cases, the option to refer the pet to a specialist is available, but if you want to become one of these doctors, you’ll have to remain in school for even longer than a “regular” vet.

3. Veterinarians Share Your Worry and Grief

The toughest part of a veterinarian’s work comes when we ask for their help in saying goodbye to a beloved pet. “Veterinarians devote their lives to providing care for and saving the lives of animals. There is no easy way to cope with the sad aspects of the job,” says Dr. Bales, who offers her clients an open letter that lets them know how deeply she—and all veterinarians—feel the pain of pet loss.

Dr. Klein says that while the difficult aspects never ease up, having an enduring connection to the community and her clients provides strength. He explains that the people in his community all know he is there and wants to help them and their pets.

Dr. Klein adds, “And because the clients all come in pairs, two-legged and four, it’s twice as fulfilling to work with them.”

4. Compassion Fatigue Is Real, and Many Veterinarians Experience It

When they’re not working in a veterinary clinic, veterinarians take time to recharge their batteries. “The balance of life is very important in this [line of] work because there is often so much compassion fatigue,” says Dr. Nielsen.

To help maintain a balance for herself, Dr. Nielsen spends her downtime doing things that make her happy: training for marathons (she hopes to complete one on every continent) and planning her return to competitive horseback riding. 

Dr. Bales found her balance in devoting her downtime to writing about pets for her blog and her business passion, Doc & Phoebe’s Cat Co. Her company is dedicated to creating a ‘no bowl’ feeding station with their Doc & Phoebe’s Cat Co. indoor hunting cat feeder kit. She’s also currently developing a version for canned cat food.

5. As a Veterinarian, Sometimes You Have to Improvise

In comparison to human medicine, there is not as much research when it comes to veterinary care. This is especially true for exotic animals. So when veterinarians like Dr. Nielsen, whose patients include snakes, rabbits, hamsters, reptiles and birds, encounter a unique problem, they have to find unique solutions.

Dr. Nielsen, who considers guinea pigs to be one of her favorite pets to treat, explains, “with guinea pigs and other small ones, sometimes you have to get creative in helping them, and you are not always sure it will work.”

Dr. Nielsen says that it’s this kind of challenge, and the successful treatment outcomes, that are “what makes the job so worthwhile and means no day will ever be boring.”

6. Veterinarians Need to Be Excellent Communicators

Dr. Nielsen says that besides learning about animals and focusing on their needs, veterinarians need to be good at communicating. “So much of what veterinarians do involves communicating with clients and other vets—yes, with humans—and you need to be prepared to do that well,” she says.

Dr. Nielsen says she reminds clients that she “can help your animal, but it’s your job too, because this is going to be a team effort to get him well. If that rabbit needs medication every three hours, you’ll need to do your part of the plan we’ve created for him. It’s heartening to work with animals, but pet parents understanding that they are a crucial part of the equation is what helps it succeed.”

7. Being a Veterinarian Means Being Prepared for a Twisty Career Path With Detours

Dr. Bales says, “I always envisioned myself as an equine veterinarian, driving from farm to farm, caring for horses.” However, when she got out of veterinary school, she discovered that it wasn’t going to be the best fit. “The great thing about veterinary school is that it prepares you for a variety of careers,” she says.

Although he always loved animals, Dr. Klein spent his early working years working in the corporate world. However, the death of his teenage sister, Alison—a devoted animal lover—prompted a major career change. He even incorporated Alison’s name into the name of his practice as a tribute to her spirit in serving the pets and people of Brooklyn.

Dr. Nielsen never planned to be a veterinarian.  She started out studying forensic medicine, then started working with horses in Germany.

It wasn’t until after watching a veterinarian treat a horse’s leg for a laceration that she realized wanted to pursue veterinary medicine. “I was mesmerized at his precise movements, patience and care,” she says. “I never said, ‘I’m going to be a vet,’ but the transition came naturally, and I ended up with my dream job.”

8. Veterinarians Still Have a Business to Run

Although a veterinarian’s work is highly personal for their clients, it’s still a business. Veterinarians who own their own practices have to worry about utility bills, printer paper and staff salaries, just like any other company.

And just like any business, a vet’s office can experience ups and downs. They have to adjust to the changing market in order to make sure that they can provide pets with the best care possible without going bankrupt in the process.

Dr. Klein says that your neighborhood veterinarian faces the same small-business challenges as an independent bookstore or local yarn shop, with competition on all fronts. “A local vet should be an ideal small-business owner, with services and products the community needs,” Dr. Klein says.

Dr. Klein worries that as larger, incorporated veterinary practices grow, small veterinary practices will be forced to shut their doors. He explains that the larger veterinary practices can offer lower prices due to volume, whereas a smaller practices have to maintain certain prices to stay operational.

Dr. Brad Levora of Little Seneca Animal Hospital in Germantown, Maryland, points out that after the economic crash of 2007 and 2008, he saw a drastic drop in the number of people bringing their pets into the vet.

Dr. Levora says, “Often we would not see an animal unless it was in extreme pain or deteriorating health.” He explains, “And in those instances, the help needed was highly specialized and thus expensive or, in some cases, there was little we could do except try to keep the animal comfortable.”

He recommends that pet parents who experience financial bumps speak openly to their veterinarians, exploring all options to support their pet’s health and well-being. “Your vet wants what’s right for the pets and will do his or her best to work with you,” he says.

By: Kathy Blumenstock