Reviewed and updated for accuracy on January 23, 2020, by Dr. Wailani Sung, MS, PhD, DVM, DACVB
At some point, you’ve probably caught your cat kneading—rhythmically pushing their paws in and out against a soft object, which could be a blanket or even your lap. It’s also referred to as “making biscuits” because the action is like kneading dough.
While not all cats knead, it’s a common behavior for young and adult felines alike. Some cats knead and purr contentedly when they’re being petted, but they may also seem to do it for no clear reason. Cats even have their own techniques—some never use their claws when they knead, and some use all four paws.
There are a few different ideas out there as to why cats “make biscuits.”
Here are some of the more popular theories for why cats knead their owners and certain objects.0:03
Why Cats Knead Blankets and Other Soft Objects
Cats start to knead as kittens while nursing from their mother. A nursing kitten instinctually kneads to help stimulate the mother’s milk production. But why do they continue to knead past nursing age?
You might find your cat kneading blankets, stuffed animals, or other soft objects around the house. Even though kneading a soft surface doesn’t yield milk, adult cats forever associate the motion of kneading with the rewarding comfort of nursing.
Why Cats Knead Their Owners
What if your cat likes to knead people—namely, you? If your cat is curled up and kneading your lap while you’re petting him, he’s returning the affection and telling you he loves you right back.
Unfortunately, this can be quite painful, since the happier he is, the harder he’ll dig in with his sharp nails. Never punish your cat for this behavior—he doesn’t realize it hurts.
Try placing a thick, soft barrier between your cat and your lap. To better ensure the comfort of both you and your cat, make a habit of keeping your cat’s nails trimmedwith nail clippers, or invest in nail guards to cover your cat’s nails.
Kneading to Stretch Their Muscles
Cats are natural yoga masters and love to work out all the kinks left over from napping. Think about it—if you have sore shoulders, it feels good to grab onto a surface and pull against it. Kneading their paws is one of the many ways cats keep themselves limber until the next nap.
Kneading to Mark What’s Theirs
Cats are territorial creatures, and one of the ways they safeguard their turf is to scent-mark their belongings. By kneading their paws on the surface of something (yes, including you), they’re activating the scent glands in their soft paw pads, thereby marking that item as theirs.
Kneading for Possible Mates
Female cats have an additional reason for kneading. They may purr, stretch, and knead the air while lying on their side to tell male cats that they can approach for possible mating.
However, if they are immediately ready to mate, they will not knead their paws and will instead raise their pelvis with the tail to one side.
While these are some of the more popular theories for why cats are thought to knead, it certainly doesn’t provide all of the possible reasons.
Whether your cat is making biscuits to show you affection or to claim you as their own, kneading is a natural, instinctual, and common cat behavior.
I’ve have/had 8 dogs Along the war there was only one true poop Easter. Coco. She was 4 mos old when she rescued us. She died at 14 and lived up to every Dachshund myth you’ve heard. Over time she didn’t run away and could be trusted of leash. We got rid of all the carpet so peeing stopped. She was potty trained early on but carpets and doing something she didn’t want to do always got a pee. But eating poop… her diet was good thank heavens we didn’t have a cat. I always assumed it was something she needed.
So your dog comes over, wagging their tail furiously, and eager for some kisses. But then you notice a few crumbles of cat litter stuck in the fur around your dog’s mouth, and you immediately know what has happened. Your dog has been raiding the litter box again. Gross, right?
It might seem pretty weird to us, but the average dog will eat some cat poop at some point. If you’ve ever wondered why dogs eat feces (also known as coprophagy), here’s everything you need to know and what you should do if you see your dog eating cat poop.
Is It Normal for Dogs to Eat Cat Poop?
At some stages of their lives, dogs eating feces is quite normal, and in fact, it may be necessary.
Mother dogs lick their puppies to keep them clean, and they ingest the fecal matter in the process. Young dogs are born without bacteria in their intestinal tract, but they need bacteria to properly digest food. The quickest way to obtain it is by eating stool from animals that already have those bacteria in their system. And in reality, a mother dog teaches their puppies to eat stool when she cleans them, so it is not as innately gross to dogs as it is to us.
But how does this translate to an adult dog that’s caught raiding the litter box?
Reasons Why Dogs Eat Cat Poop
There are two major categories of reasons why dogs will eat feces. Most cases involve behavioral causes, but there are some medical reasons as well.
Behavioral Reasons
Unfortunately, in many dogs (and perhaps most), eating feces becomes a habit. In fact, some dogs actually seem to enjoy eating it. This can become a very difficult habit to break. Your dog is getting rewarded with something they like each time they are able to access the “prize” (a dirty litter box), so they are motivated to try again in the future. Much like us grabbing the bag of potato chips even though we know it isn’t a healthy snack, dogs will be drawn to the litter box even though they know they aren’t supposed to.
Boredom is another common reason why pups will start eating feces. Since they explore the world with their mouths, the litter pan is no exception, and then they find a treat stashed there, which keeps them coming back. Dogs that have ample playtime and get lots of exercise and interactive time with their families are less likely to develop coprophagia.
Another surprising reason some dogs start to eat feces is if they have an accident in the house. If you have punished your dog in some way (even by yelling or scolding), they know they will be punished for their accident, so some dogs will hide the evidence by eating it. This is just one reason why you should always use positive potty training techniques and never punish your dog for accidents. Once they discover they like the taste of fecal matter, the situation can spread to the litter box as well.
Lastly, some dogs will begin to eat feces during periods of stress. Much like people with comfort foods, dogs will turn to the things they enjoyed as puppies to relieve their stress. For some dogs, this may include coprophagy.
Medical Reasons
Even though it’s less common, medical causes for dogs for dogs eating cat poop are diagnosed on a regular basis.
The most likely reason tends to be malnutrition in cases where dogs are being fed a diet that does not meet all of their nutritional needs. Most commonly, we see this in dogs being fed a homemade diet, or one that has not been AAFCO-certified to meet all of the nutritional needs for that particular animal (this information is found on the label).
Other causes may include intestinal parasites, poor intestinal absorption, and some types of hormonal or endocrine imbalances. Occasionally, senior dogs who suddenly develop the habit may be suffering from cognitive dysfunction.
The good news is that if your vet identifies a medical cause for your dog’s coprophagy, you can deal with the underlying condition to prevent more significant problems. The treatment may also help eliminate the desire to eat stool.
Can Dogs Get Sick From Eating Cat Feces and Cat Litter?
Unfortunately, there are some concerns with dogs that eat another animal’s feces.
First, if the other animal has any intestinal parasites or certain harmful bacteria, like E. coli or Salmonella, it is possible for your dog to contract these diseases.
One seldom-considered facet is that if the cat is taking medication, the residues from that drug may still be in the cat’s feces when the dog consumes it, which may affect the dog.
And of course, whatever your dog eats can be spread to your family through their kisses and saliva. Always wash your hands well after interacting with your dog, and try to avoid kisses—especially if your dog is known to enjoy raiding the litter box.
How to Prevent Your Dog From Eating Cat Feces
This can be a very difficult habit to break, and it will likely take patience and the willingness to try many approaches.
Switch to Positive Training Methods
Most importantly, do not punish your dog for raiding the cat box. This can actually make the problem worse, particularly if your dog eats stool in part as a reaction to stress. There are other ways to break the habit without punishment. If you have done this in the past, talk to your vet about finding a dog trainer who can teach you positive training methods.
Clean the Litter Box Often
One technique that is very effective but labor intensive is to clean the litter pan very frequently—preferably, each time your cat uses the box. Although self-cleaning litter boxes are on the market, some cats are afraid of these, so be aware of this if you decide to get one. Follow all the advice from the company and keep both the old and new boxes available for a while to get your cat used to the idea.
Keep Your Dog Active and Engaged
Increasing your dog’s activity, exercise, and amount of household attention will also help, particularly if the habit was developed out of boredom. Tired dogs often have less interest in causing trouble, and lots of outdoor playtime will make it less likely for your dog to come inside and look for presents in the litter box.
Check Your Dog’s Diet and Slow Down Their Eating
Make sure you are feeding your dog a well-balanced diet. Talk to your vet about what you’re feeding your dog and ask for recommendations. Also try slowing down how fast your dog eats (such as using a treat ball to dispense food) to help improve digestion and reduce the instinct to eat feces.
Try Medications, Supplements, and Food Additives
There are supplements, medications, and food additives that can be used to change the flavor of the feces and hopefully deter your dog from eating it. Any medication options should be discussed with your veterinarian and used after other options have been exhausted.
Keep in mind that food additives need to be given to the pet whose stool is being eaten (not the eater!). This means that treating your cat comes into play, which can be a difficult ask.
Consider a Basket Muzzle as a Last Resort
As a last resort, basket muzzles—which allow the dog to eat, drink, pant, but not pick up items such as fecal matter—can be extremely effective in some dogs.
The good news is that with patience, most dogs can be stopped from regularly snacking on the cat’s stool. The unfortunate part of the equation is that, much like us, it’s hard to not give in to cravings and to change snacking habits. Dogs have long memories, so consistency and forgiveness are important to remember when retraining your dog.
PetMD EditorialUpdated: May 18, 2020Published: January 06, 2017Share this:FacebookTwitterPinterest
Reviewed and udpated on May 18, 2020 by Jennifer Coates, DVM
When it comes to strange pet behaviors, drinking out of the toilet may very well be at the top of the list.
Oddly enough, some of the reasons for a pet drinking out of the toilet are rather sensible—at least on the surface. Dr. Jennifer Coates puts it this way, “When was the last time you dumped and scrubbed your pet’s water bowl? If you can’t remember, the water in the toilet may be more appetizing than what’s available in the water bowl!”
Why Are Pets Attracted to Toilet Water?
The fact that your toilet is running (complete with sounds of flowing water) may very well speak to the primal nature of your pet to seek out running water in the wild. According to Dr. Coates, running water tends to be a healthier choice than stagnant water in a natural setting. “Perhaps some of our pets have an instinctive pull towards running water and that’s why they’re attracted to water that ‘moves’ in our homes,” she says.
Ask anyone who has a cat that hangs out on the kitchen counter. Turning on the faucet can be an irresistible temptation for the cat to saunter over and have a sip. Similarly, many dogs love to drink water running from the hose when you’re washing your car or watering the lawn. Even knowing this, pet owners still scratch their heads when, after they go to the trouble of providing fresh water—perhaps even water of a trendy and imported nature—their fur kids still line up for a crack at the toilet when they’re feeling parched.
Coates has another hypothesis. “It could be that some pets prefer the relative solitude of the bathroom. If their water bowl is in the middle of a chaotic home, they might not feel comfortable settling down to drink at that location,” she says.
So, are the dangers of drinking out of the toilet real, or are we worrying ourselves over something that is harmless for our pets?
Is Toilet Water Dirty?
“I think [the dangers] are real,” says Dr. Patrick Mahaney, a holistic vet who practices in Los Angeles, California. “I’m not a fan of letting your pet drink out of the toilet.”
Dr. Mahaney says, “if you were to swab your average toilet there would be an issue. If you don’t clean your toilet very often, you are going to put your dog or cat at risk for coming down with an infection, such as E. coli, because our feces can contain that—as well as other bacteria.”
The risk of infection increases greatly when we ourselves are sick. According to Dr. Mahaney, humans can pass diseases like Giardia to their animals, and the consumption of toilet water can put your pet on the road to illness. And intestinal bacteria and parasites aren’t the only risks. Humans who are undergoing medical treatments such as chemotherapy can also shed toxic chemical substances in their urine and stool. While the chances of such exposures may be low for pets, there remains a potential for it to happen.
Toxic Toilet Cleaning Products
Another danger associated with consuming toilet water come from the chemicals that we use to clean our toilets—with chlorine bleach products being one of the main offenders. Toilet cleaners can contain sodium hypochlorite, hypochlorite salts, sodium peroxide, sodium perborate, and other chemicals that can be lethal when directly consumed.
Restricting your pet’s access to the bathroom for a few hours (and a few flushes) after you’ve cleaned is a good rule of thumb. And never use the types of cleaners that are added to the toilet reservoir. They continuously release chemicals into the water with every fill of the bowl. Of course, it is also a good rule to be vigilant for symptoms of any sort of poisoning.
Poorly diluted toilet bowl cleaners can cause chemical burns in the mouth and throat while going down, as well as other serious complications once fully ingested. Symptoms of bleach ingestion in pets can include vomiting, drooling, redness in and around the mouth, abdominal pain, and a sore throat.
“Any toxin is not good for a pet to ingest,” says Dr. Katie Grzyb of One Love Animal Hospital in Brooklyn, New York. Dr. Coates agrees but adds, “when used properly in a toilet bowl, bleach is usually so diluted that healthy animals would be expected to show only mild gastrointestinal upset after ingestion.”
How to Stop Your Pet Drinking from the Toilet
“I think the best way to curb drinking from the toilet is to keep the lid down and the door closed. Also, offering several bowls of clean, cool, fresh water around the house can help to deter toilet-water drinking,” says Dr. Grzyb.
Dr. Mahaney also advises owners to keep the lid closed, but realizes that is not possible for everyone. “If you can’t [keep the toilet closed] because you have children, for example, then just try to keep the toilet as clean as possible,” he says.
For pet owners who want to offer all of the excitement of drinking from the toilet without the risk, a pet water fountain can provide that experience. Dr. Coates recommends them, “particularly for cats who may not drink enough water from bowls to stay well hydrated.”
Of course, you’ll need to keep your pet’s fountain filled with fresh water, as well as thoroughly cleaning the interior once a week and periodically changing the filters. Dr. Coates cautions, “if you don’t clean and maintain your pet’s water fountain, the water in it just may be dirtier than what’s available in your toilet.”
I never get good photos of her but this is a keeper. Trixie is 9 now. We haven’t had her a year yet but have seen so many changes in her as you do when you have a rescue. It feels like she has been here forever.
To recap Trixie’s human died and she went to live with his son. Her human brother-in-laws Uncle. Trixie went to live with his son. Unfortunately he didn’t care for her and my brother-in-law Mom begged him to get her. He went by and took her right there.
W went to see her that Saturday. On the way home he asked if I was okay if we volunteered to take her. It was nice to ask even though he knew the answer. My husband has border collie experience so shortly after she came to live with us
We’re a happy family. Rudy has his sister and takes a big boy stand when someone wants to play. Her love is the ball. She can barley walk after she played ball. We limit her to a short play time to avoid this. Arthritis in her back leg.
A you can see she is a beauty and we are so glad to have her with us.
I haven’t been posting these and I need to do this. There are great articles to remind us and introduce us to topics.
How to Read a Dog’s Body Language
PetMD EditorialUpdated: May 28, 2020Published: December 19, 2019Share this:FacebookTwitterPinterest
Reviewed for accuracy on December 12, 2019, by Dr. Wailani Sung, MS, PhD, DVM, DACVB
Dogs express their emotions with their bodies, but we’re not always able to correctly interpret the messages they’re sending. Or worse yet, we misunderstand their intent, which can make a challenging situation even worse.
Learning to read what your dog is communicating is one of the most important things you can do to strengthen your relationship with them. While every dog will have their own unique nuances to their communication style, most dogs rely on similar postures to convey how they’re feeling.
When reading a dog’s body language, it’s important to note that the dog’s entirebody plays a role in signaling; for example, a wagging tail doesn’t necessarily mean that a dog is happy, especially if the rest of their body is stiff.
Everything from your dog’s ears and expression on their face to the placement of their feet, and of course, the tail, work together to help communicate your dog’s emotional state.
Here are some dog body language basics to help you understand what your dog is trying to tell you.
Happy Dog Body Language
A happy dog is engaged in their surroundings and will have a loose, waggy posture.
Ears: Held in their natural position; pointed ears will stand straight, and floppy ears will hang slightly forward
Eyes: Soft, and the forehead is neutral (without wrinkles)
Mouth: Either closed without tension around the lips, or if the dog is active, open in a relaxed pant
Tail: Wagging in a wide, sweeping motion that is even with the spine, or if the dog is engaged in play, wagging slightly higher
The overall body posture will be soft and wiggly, and some of the dog’s movements might be overexaggerated, especially during play.
Examples of Happy Dog Body Language:
Alert Dog Body Language
An alert dog is assessing his surroundings for more information.
Ears: Perked up and pointed forward (look at the base of the ear for floppy ear breeds)
Eyes: Wide open and focused with a neutral, relaxed forehead
Mouth: Closed without tension at the lips or around the snout
Tail: Extended from the body, even with the spine and possibly wagging slightly
The dog’s overall body posture is distributed evenly between the four feet in a “ready” position as they determine their next steps. Below are examples
Examples of Alert Dog Body Language:
Stressed or Nervous Dog Body Language
A dog that’s stressed or uncomfortable will exhibit many of the same postures as a nervous dog but might also perform a series of behaviors called “calming signals.”
These movements are appeasement or displacement behaviors that represent an attempt to self-calm or reduce escalating tension.
Stressed dogs often avoid eye contact or look at the trigger, then quickly look away.
A distressed dog might perform exaggerated yawns, sneeze or lick their lips frequently. They might also shake their bodies as if their coat is wet, focus on self-grooming, or scratch themselves excessively.
Examples of Stressed or Nervous Dog Body Language:
Fearful Dog Body Language
A nervous or fearful dog will have a stiff posture and might hunch over so that their back is curved and their head is close to the ground.
Ears: Tucked back against the head
Eyes: The dog might turn their head away from a stressor but angle their eyes towards it, causing the whites of their eyes to show (referred to as “whale eyes”).
Mouth: The dog might keep their mouth tightly closed with the corners of the mouth pulled back, or they might begin panting without a temperature change or increase in activity.
Tail: A nervous dog will tuck their tail so that it’s pressed up against the belly, and they will distribute their weight so that they are shifted back and away from potential triggers.
The dog’s overall body posture is stiff and low, and they might shed more readily when nervous.
Example of Fearful Dog Body Language:
Submissive Dog Body Language
A submissive dog tries to appear small and as less of a threat. They might lower their body to the ground, or even flip over on their back to expose their stomach.
Ears: Pinned back
Eyes: A submissive dog will avoid eye contact and squint their eyes.
Mouth: There will be tension around the mouth, and the dog might pull back their lips to expose their front teeth in a “submissive grin,” which looks like a smile, but is a way of showing deference. The dog might also lick around their muzzle frequently.
Tail: Tucked or held low and moving in a slow, tight wag
The dog might also raise a front paw in an appeasement gesture. Their overall movement is slow, and their weight will be shifted backwards to appear less threatening.
Example of Submissive Dog Body Language:
Aggressive Dog Body Language
An aggressive dog is ready to react to a stressor.
Ears: Depending on the reason for a dog’s aggression, they will hold their ears differently. So this is a scenario where it’s essential to take a dog’s whole body positioning into account.
A fearful dog will typically hold their ears back and against their head.
An assertive, confident dog will prick their ears forward or to the side.
Eyes: Their gaze will be fixed on the stimulus with a hard, unwavering stare, with wrinkles across the forehead.
Mouth: There is tension around the mouth, and the dog might also have wrinkles across the muzzle or a raised upper lip, exposing the teeth.
Tail: Again, you will need to take a dog’s whole body into account here.
A fearful dog may hold their tail low or tucked before an act of a aggression but raise it during the act.
A confident dog may hold their tail high above their body and it will possibly be twitching from side to side in a tight wag.
The fur might be raised along the spine in piloerection (also commonly referred to as their hackles), particularly across the shoulders and at the base of the spine near the tail.
The dog’s weight will be shifted forward in a stiff-legged “ready” stance.
An aggressive dog’s overall body posture is rigid and tense, with minimal movement.
Examples of Aggressive and Confident Dog Body Language:
Knowing where fleas live, both in and around your home, can help you cut off an infestation at the source. See our step-by-step guide to making your house inhospitable to fleas. You won’t be sorry!
Where Do Ticks Hide? Ticks can pose a serious threat to our pets and their health. Ticks can spread diseases like Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. To help prevent your pet from getting infected with a tick-borne disease, it is always smart to check your dog for ticks after spending time outdoors or to check your cat for ticks if they are indoor/outdoor cats.
There are a few favorite hiding spots that you should know about when checking your pet for stowaway pests. These areas include under the collar, under the tail, inside the groin area, between the toes, under the front legs and at the elbows.
Ticks have also been known to try to hide on a pet’s eyelids. So be very thorough with your tick checks to make sure you catch and remove them all before they can harm your pet.
Aside from knowing where ticks hide, it’s important to take proactive measures to prevent tick bites in the first place. The best way to do this is to talk with your veterinarian about prescription flea and tick prevention.
8 Tips for Helping a Dog That’s Scared of Fireworks
Victoria Schade, CPDT-KAUpdated: June 03, 2021Published: April 25, 2019Share this:FacebookTwitterPinterest
Fireworks might be awe-inspiring for some people, but many dogs are scared of fireworks and find the sound and spectacle of them terrifying. Dog fireworks anxiety can leave your pets in a panicked state.
It should go without saying that anxious dogs don’t belong at fireworks displays, but even dogs that are at home can be overwhelmed by the noise, especially if the neighbors are setting off their own. That’s why it is so important to help your pet.
Dogs that are scared of fireworks might hide, tremble, pace or whine in response to the sounds, leading pet parents to consider trying pet meds to help deal with the behaviors. But there are alternatives.
The following tips might help reduce dog fireworks anxiety—whether you choose to train before scheduled fireworks or need tips that you can use right away.
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Use Sound Training to Relieve Dog Fireworks Anxiety
You can help dogs that are afraid of fireworks learn to cope with them by setting up training sessions throughout the year, well in advance of events such as the Fourth of July or New Year’s Eve.
Begin by playing a fireworks sound effect (many are available free online) at a very low level for a brief period while giving your dog a series of small, tasty dog treats and lots of praise when they remain calm. Then turn the sound off and stop giving treats.
Repeat the process with the sound at a low level until your dog looks to you expectantly when it starts. Always be sure to check that your dog is comfortable with the sounds and not displaying signs of anxiety.
Gradually turn up the sound in subsequent training sessions, varying the recordings to include a variety of firework types, until your dog begins to associate the noises with goodies and praise for having a calm demeanor.
Try a Dog Anxiety Vest
Much like swaddling helps to calm infants, a snug garment that puts gentle pressure on your dog’s torso can reduce fireworks anxiety.
Get your dog used to wearing a pressure wrap—like a dog anxiety vest—before fireworks so that by the time the event arrives, your dog will be comfortable with the garment.
You can either make your own by wrapping stretchy fabric around your dog’s shoulders and chest (make sure it’s not so tight that it restricts blood flow or the ability to breathe) or opt for a ThunderShirtthat uses a patented “hugging” design to help reduce stress from dog fireworks anxiety.
Schedule a Pre-Fireworks Workout
Going for a long hike or spending time playing with pals during the day will help wear out your dog before the fireworks begin.
A dog that’s mentally and physically exhausted might be less likely to react to fireworks, so plan a day of fun activities that will leave your dog ready for a snooze.
Schedule Meals and Potty Time Early
It’s important to time your dog’s dinner and potty trips well in advance of nightfall, since fireworks typically start as soon as the sun sets. There’s nothing worse than a dog that’s scared of fireworks that needs a potty break but is too terrified to step out the door.
Give your dog enough time to finish his dinner, digest and potty before the noise begins so that he’s not forced to hold it during an already stressful period.
Keep Your Pup Occupied During Fireworks
Provide distraction by giving your dog something delicious to focus on during fireworks, like a KONG Classic dog toy.
Stuff the busy toy with special goodies like your dog’s all-time favorite treat so that he has something else to focus on during the noise.
Muffle the Noise
It’s easy to understand why dogs are scared of fireworks; the unpredictable booming sounds can be perceived as an impending threat and make a dog feel vulnerable.
While counterconditioning with a fireworks recording throughout the year will help your dog learn to cope with the noise, an easy way to manage dog fireworks anxiety during the event is to simply muffle the sounds with something else.
Plug in a white noise machine or turn on some calming music loud enough so that the fireworks are camouflaged. If your dog’s “safe zone” is his crate, you can also cover the top, sides, and back with a thick blanket and play music or sounds for him. Just make sure your dog can leave the crate if he wants to.
Comfort Your Dog
You might have heard that comforting your dog in times of stress can reinforce his fears. However, your dog’s reactions to fireworks are based on a legitimate fear. Providing comfort during this time is appropriate and often helpful.
Sitting close to your dog, petting him gently and offering quiet words of reassurance during scary events like fireworks can help to center your dog and might even reduce his fearfulness. Plus, doing so will help your dog understand that you’re his partner and that he can always turn to you when he’s feeling scared.
Consult a Professional
If your dog’s behavior doesn’t improve, find a positive trainer to help you and your dog work through relaxation protocols.
If your dog’s fireworks anxiety puts them or you in danger, talk with your veterinarian or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist about anxiety medication for dogs and whether it is necessary.
Remember that your dog’s fireworks anxiety is a visceral response, and it will likely take a multi-step approach to help your dog feel more comfortable with the sounds.
These Dog Training Tips Can Help Your Pup Overcome Leash Reactivity
Victoria Schade, CPDT-KAUpdated: February 10, 2021Published: May 16, 2018Share this:FacebookTwitterPinterest
By Victoria Schade
Going for a stroll with a dog is usually a relaxing bonding experience, but if you happen to have a leash-reactive dog, it can be overwhelming. Leash-reactive dogs are triggered by stimuli in the environment, responding with over-the-top behaviors that increase stress levels for the pet parent, the dog and everyone within barking distance. Fortunately, there are straightforward, dog-friendly techniques for dealing with leash reactivity that can help bring peace back to your daily strolls.
Is It Leash Aggression or Something Else?
Leash “reactivity” is a catchall descriptor for behaviors that can range from fear to frustration to true aggression.
A dog that barks, jumps, lunges and growls while on a dog leash might seem like he wants to rumble with whatever it is that’s triggering him, but many dogs exhibit those types of reactions in an effort to increase their distance from the triggering stimulus.
Reactivity can look like aggression, but many leash-reactive dogs are dealing with anxiety or fear, and they use the explosive displays in an attempt to keep away from the stimulus. It’s a defensive strategy used by fearful dogs to prevent further confrontations.
In some cases, dogs that are overaroused on leash are actually frustrated because they’re unable to interact with other dogs they encounter. These dogs are perfectly appropriate when they have the opportunity to greet other dogs off leash, but resort to barky displays when they’re prevented from engaging in normal social behaviors like moving freely around one another and sniffing.
If a dog has a history of inappropriate behavior or fighting with other dogs, it’s possible that leash reactivity is rooted in true aggression.
What Causes Leash Reactivity?
Leash reactivity might stem from any of the following reasons or from a combination of them:
Lack of Early Socialization
Dogs who miss the opportunity to explore the world, meet new people and animals, and have a variety of positive experiences during puppyhood might be more likely to exhibit leash reactivity. This is because they’re unsure of how to process new situations.
Having a Bad Experience During a Walk
If a dog has a negative run-in with another dog or is frightened by something during a walk, like a speeding truck, over time, he might generalize that experience to all dogs or trucks he encounters.
Being Punished for Reacting
Dogs that have been “corrected” for reacting to a trigger during walks with aversive equipment, like a choke collar, might make the connection between pain and the presence of the trigger, and react preemptively.
Barrier Frustration
Some dogs want to interact with other dogs during walks and bark or jump when they’re unable to. Also, if the leash tightens and they’re moved away from the other dog before they’re ready to disengage, that can cause them to become reactive as well.
Dealing with Leash Reactivity Using Gentle Dog Training Methods
The core of rehabbing a leash-reactive dog is changing your dog’s perception of the stressor. Instead of feeling unsure or threatened, your dog will learn to have a more positive association to the stimulus.
To get started, you’ll need high-value treats like tiny bits of chicken, and a “marker”—either a dog clicker or a short verbal marker like the word “yup.” The clicker is particularly effective in leash reactivity scenarios because the clear sound cuts through ambient noise.
Set the Buffer Zone
First, determine your dog’s “buffer zone,” or the distance at which your dog can see the stimulus but not react to it. This step is important, because if you accidentally get too close to the trigger, your dog will likely tip over into reactivity and won’t be able to process the training.
Your goal is to always keep your dog “sub-threshold,” or below the point where he reacts to the trigger, even if that means ducking behind cars or walking up a driveway to maintain the buffer. If your dog is unable to focus on you and refuses the high-value dog treats, you’re probably too close to the trigger.
Associate Treats With the Trigger
The training plan is simple: mark the moment your dog sees the trigger at a distance with a click or “yup,” then immediately give your dog a treat. Continue this process, maintaining the buffer zone and marking and rewarding your dog frequently, until the trigger is out of sight. Remember, you’re making an association between the appearance of the trigger and the delicious teats, so repeat this process every time you encounter the stressor, for as long as it’s visible.
If you’re consistent, your dog will soon figure out that the appearance of the trigger means that something good is going to happen, and will probably look at you the second he sees the stressor on the horizon. This is a positive step—it means that your dog has started to make the association between the scary thing and the food.
Decrease the Distance From the Trigger
At this point, you can slowly begin to decrease the distance between your dog and the trigger during walks, always making sure that your dog is relaxed and still able to eat treats as you get closer.
Keep in mind, if you notice that your dog has trouble looking away from the trigger or refuses dog treats, you might be pushing too hard.
Walking a leash-reactive dog can be embarrassing, and your dog might end up being labeled a menace, even if he’s reacting out of fear or frustration. But by understanding your dog’s buffer zone and increasing his confidence using gentle dog training methods, in time, he might become the neighborhood welcoming committee.
